Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So it flogs the pants off a CV8 Monaro, R33 GTST (albeit mostly stock) and a few other miscellaneous cars.

It's s bit slow getting onto boost but reels them in quick if they do get ahead. Gets to redline pretty fast in 1st and I've had the rear step out on me a fraction in the dry. :thumbsup:

Still impressed - but still trying to bleed this damn cooling system 100%

Sean

told you it's a bitch.

have a read of this

co.pdf

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I found a good and quick way to bleed the system. Fill it as best you can and drive the car a short way, you will most definitely overheat but you need to get all the bubbles moving. Once the thermostat has opened fully you can crack the rear bleed and get all the air out. Now you need to make sure the overflow is full as when the car cools down it will fill the system automatically. Repeat the next day after filling from the rear bleed point when cold and you should be fine. Its the only way I have found without doing it a dozen times or more.

I just let it idle for half an hour with the cap off and just keep topping up as It disappears, has worked for all my cars.

it won't work man, its an m35

you have to invert them and bleed it from the sump

lmao i think they just wish they had bought a car with as much style as a c34, the m35 looks more like a childs toy or maybe a strange sex toy. although that would explain the childish things they say some times :P the manual transmissoin makes the c34 more enjoyable anyway.

good to see someone getting results from a turbo replacement, cant wait til i can drive mine again.

Your right Ive only done it on the following engines - 3tgte,18rg, 2tg, 5sfe, ls1, rb25,18rc, awu, didn't realize there was a big airlock in the m35 point sorry.

Should have found similar issues with the ls1 just quietly

Edited by Jetwreck

The M35 guys are sensitive because they picked the uptight upper-class girl.

We chose the cheap loose & easy slapper.

Uptight maybe, but get her in her element and she'll rock your socks harder and leave you with a bigger grin than some cheap & loose slapper.

Love the comparisons though :happy:

lmao i think they just wish they had bought a car with as much style as a c34, the m35 looks more like a childs toy or maybe a strange sex toy. although that would explain the childish things they say some times :P the manual transmissoin makes the c34 more enjoyable anyway.

good to see someone getting results from a turbo replacement, cant wait til i can drive mine again.

lol... obvious troll is obvious.

lol... obvious troll is obvious.

Isn't lilcrash the same guy that had a standard C34 faster than a Typhoon or something and was going to do a 400m to show us his standard C34 13 second run....I wonder what ever happened with that!!!!....or am I mistaken and it was someone else.

No that's me. I still don't understand what is so un believable about beating a typhoon. It's just a falcon. I supose you think v8 commodores are quick too.

And my comments were only jokes anyway, I'm actually growing fond of the m35 shape.

No that's me. I still don't understand what is so un believable about beating a typhoon. It's just a falcon. I supose you think v8 commodores are quick too.

And my comments were only jokes anyway, I'm actually growing fond of the m35 shape.

sorry mate.......took the comments the wrong way!

Nothing beats the 260rs for looks btw!

back in the day when I bought my stagea series1 C34's were 20k+, series2 autos were 27k+ and manuals over 30k.

the M35 model wasnt available.... this was 6yrs ago.

nowdays any stagea model is very affordable - simply depends what rocks your boat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...