Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, well i just got my car wheel-alligned. Basically im not to happy. Firstly the HICAS light now comes on from when i turn the car on... So they obviously did sometin to the hicas. Also the rear end feels all skippy, like very unreassuring, i dont know how to explain it, but it definatly does not feel good when cornering fast.

Actually i think ill just scan the results, it will take too long to type out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36646-wheel-alignment-results/
Share on other sites

Is the steering wheel centred properly at "straight ahead"? If it's off-centre, then that will certainly upset the HICAS system.

If it's got problems, take it back and tell them to set it right.

Hicas light, check that it is plugged in underneath the car - if it isnt, this may explain why its skipping.

You have toe out on the rear???? a little toe out on the front helps turn in, toe on the rear should be neutral or in (slightly).

also you have twice as much camber on one side of the front than the other??? perhaps your bushes are rooted? seems a bit strange, but I cant see how it would make your back end skittish, just effect your turn in from left to right.

Have you thought of fitting whiteline bushes or camber arms?

Lastly, get some castor on there, as much as you can - it will make life alot better. I have some arms with castor bushes in them, give 7 1/2deg (good price for you:)) but if you want the best result, get some adjustable castor rods - they are the shit. Makes turn in soooooo much better.

For some reason that eludes me, Skylines have more negative camber on the front right.

this seems to be by design.

the hicas light being illuminated constantly is not a good look.

If this was my car i would reset with the steering straight and then post the results for further feedback.

Park your car with the steering wheel straight and both front wheels pointing forwards. This may sound dumb but, I have seen skylines that have had the ECU reset with the front wheels off centre, display disturbing rear wheel steering at high speed.

Disconnect your battery and depress the brake pedal. This will reset your ECU and HICAS computer.

If the symtoms persist please consult your doctor, or post results here. It sounds like your wheel aligner may have something to rectify, but a reset and visual inspection of the rear suspension could help to remedy your problem.

If any of the above comments seem stupid, condecending or helpful please feel free to curse Black Douglas and Dry......... :)

for some decent handling get some adjustable caster rods, fit new poly bushes to the front and rear, a hicas remolval bar and some pinapples to the rear subframe, then there is at least some adjustment there for you i can help with the lot also.

suspension seems to be one of those things that once u sorta ask a place 'why does it do so&so?' theyll come up with an arms-length list of items u can change to try and help. people seem to just go 'shit yeh i got my coilovers in shes gona handle awesome now', and sure stiffer lower susp helps but the rest adds the extra adjustments u need really to get things all nice and square and set up well.

but if ur unhappy id just go straight back and ask for another alignment. ive done it many times, had up to 3 alignments in a row coz im not happy haha then i got castor rods to really help adjust the front (on my old car, S13) and they really were helpful.

mite pay to look into other stuff =]

Hicas light, check that it is plugged in underneath the car - if it isnt, this may explain why its skipping.

You have toe out on the rear????  a little toe out on the front helps turn in, toe on the rear should be neutral or in (slightly).

also you have twice as much camber on one side of the front than the other??? perhaps your bushes are rooted?  seems a bit strange, but I cant see how it would make your back end skittish, just effect your turn in from left to right.

Have you thought of fitting whiteline bushes or camber arms?

Lastly, get some castor on there, as much as you can - it will make life alot better.  I have some arms with castor bushes in them, give 7 1/2deg (good price for you:)) but if you want the best result, get some adjustable castor rods - they are the shit.  Makes turn in soooooo much better.

something did happen, the adjustments are all over the place - take it back

toe is the front of the wheel, as in whether or not it is pointing straight ahead (0) out means the tyres are pointing out from the vehicle, ie, they are not pointing in a straight line. On the front this can help turn in, on the back - no good.

get rid of the toe on the back - check the hicas connector under the car as this may have been bumped, and see if they can get even camber on the front.

I have done alot of work on r32 gtst's with suspension mods....have knowledgeable friends in V8 supercar business....heres what I had on my car...worked well with Tein HR allround, and some other adjustable stuff. A main improvement would be to get adjustable caster...then a little more camber on front as this will stop the tendancy of these cars to push wide (understeer) due to hicas. You might not be able to get all these figues but definitly get rid of the toeout...the hicas does this for you to a certain degree. Toeout will improve turn in but you dont need that....and too much toeout will give the rear that skitterry feel.....thats cause the rear wheels are fighting eachother.

Front

Camber : -ve 2.5

Caster : +ve 9

Toe :

Rear

Camber : -ve 1.8

Toe : +0 total

Hope that helps a bit.

Front  

Camber                 : -ve 2.5

Caster  : +ve 9

Toe  :  

Rear

Camber                 : -ve 1.8

Toe   : +0 total

Hope that helps a bit.

Hi Ender, pretty close to what we run on the circuit, we have no HICAS though;

Front

Camber : -ve 3.0

Caster : +ve 9

Toe : zero

Ride height : 345 mm

Rear

Camber : -ve 1.5

Toe : zerol

Ride height : 350 mm

The only thing we change for street is lees front camber (about 1.5 -ve). For the strip we remove the rear camber all together, in fact we run slightly positive (about +ve 0.5) static camber. This limits the amount of dynamic negative camber, makes for better launch and traction.

Hoep that adds to the thread

Enrico,

I had heaps of rear skitting and poor exit-corner grip. I had too much toe in at the rear. It's now set at 0 and much better.

Take it to Bridgstone on Gouger or Blackwood Tyrepower, the only two places in town I recommend and I've been to alot.

ok, so just to clarify before i go there on tues.

front camber to be even at as close to -1.5 deg camber

toe to be 0 on front and rear? or only rear?

camber also on the rear to be -1.5 deg?

unfortunately castor cant be changed yet.

finally what is KPI? just for interest sake.

cheers

ok, so just to clarify before i go there on tues.

front camber to be even at as close to -1.5 deg camber

toe to be 0 on front and rear? or only rear?

camber also on the rear to be -1.5 deg?

unfortunately castor cant be changed yet.

finally what is KPI? just for interest sake.

cheers

Hi Enrico, for a combination road and track car this is what I would recommend;

Front

Camber : -ve 1.5

Caster : +ve 9

Toe : zero

Ride height : 345 mm

Rear

Camber : -ve 0.5

Toe : zero

Ride height : 350 mm

If they can't get these numbers, ask them why. As you know, I strongly recommend fitting adjustable caster bushes as the first suspension mod, it makes such a huge difference for not a lot of cost.

KPI = king pin inclination.

(Sometimes called, SAI = steeering axis inclination)

King pin inclination -- The inclination of the tops of the king pins toward each other to create a stabilizing force to the vehicle.

King pin -- A pivot pin commonly used to allow the front wheels to rotate. On a Skyline the knuckle pivots about the king pin.

You can just see the top of the knuckle above the brake rotor in the front suspension photo

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/article.../15_R33_01c.JPG

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...