Sump Is Hitting Sway Bar

[R32Abuser]

Hi all,

Before the standard "Use the search function" response will be used - I have searched and there is very little regarding this issue using a OEM routed swaybar.

This topic is regarding installing an RB30DET into a R32 GTST.

Currently, my sump (High Energy style) is clashing with my sway bar. My engine mounts have been modified as per the PDF (potentially slightly lower engine position) but this has led to the sump hitting the Whiteline sway bar (SK group buy spec).

My question is what have people done to get around this issue?

On initial glance, my solution would be to space the sway bar down at the chassis mounts. Use a longer bolt and washer. The only issue I can see is that the link pins/drop links will no longer be long enough. However, this is easily overcome by either modifying the standard links or purchasing aftermarket ones.

The only practical downside I can see from that is the sway bar may end up lower than the cross member which in the vent of bottoming the car out, the sway bar will scrape/bend. So long as the link pins are actuating the sway bar perpendicular to the lever arm on the sway bar, kinematically I see no change.

Any other ideas/options?

All input appreciated.

Cheers,

David

[GTScotT]

Whiteline sell an S-link kit for the sway bar which would give you some adjustment i believe.

Thing is, I dont think the amount you will need to space it will alter much at all. A 10mm drop would do SFA to the spherical ball joints on the links.

Just how far out is it do you think?

[R32Abuser]

Well realistically speaking, the engine mounts have been modified as per the RB30DET PDF, so in saying that it should be clashing at a MAXIMUM of about 10-15mm.

Car is at my engine builders as he is installing it, so dont have the car on hand to measure/take pictures.

Just wondering if there are any other ideas other than the above mentioned fixes?

[KiwiRS4T]

Heat up the sump and modify it with a hammer (does it have gates and baffles inside? Modify them first).

[GTScotT]

Heat up the sump and modify it with a hammer (does it have gates and baffles inside? Modify them first).

This has got to be the dumbest idea I have ever heard...

Mate this is not a personal attack, and I generally respect your posts as a whole... But this is WRONG.

DO NOT play games with the motors life blood, RB's are plaigued with oil problems as it is. Why create another?

[FineLine]

Had the same problem in my 33 with the same sump.

I spaced the swaybar mounting brackets where they bolt on to the chassis rail. good as gold now.

[bubba]

Had the same problem in my 33 with the same sump.

I spaced the swaybar mounting brackets where they bolt on to the chassis rail. good as gold now.

Stock engine? or 25/30 with redrilled engine mounts?

[FineLine]

Stock engine? or 25/30 with redrilled engine mounts?

30 lowered to the same heoght as the 25.

The problem isnt the engine height. Its the shape of the sump. Later ones were changed to compensate for the sway bar.

[bubba]

Yeah I thought they had changed.. mine has about a 50mm chamfer on the leading edge.

[KiwiRS4T]

This has got to be the dumbest idea I have ever heard...

Mate this is not a personal attack, and I generally respect your posts as a whole... But this is WRONG.

DO NOT play games with the motors life blood, RB's are plaigued with oil problems as it is. Why create another?

Your criticism is welcome! I actually meant it quite literally at the time - easy fix to modify tin sump to accommodate a few mm but I guess it needed a little more thought...

[NYTSKY]

I had the sump knotched and a custom bent swaybar.

The best way would be to get the swaybar made to fit.

[works 510]

I had the same problem in my cefiro.

It just slightly touches.

those whiteline S/ 8 looking links are rubbish, imho.

My car is street/ drift and like all of my cars, usually set up with soft susp and big sway bars.

I thought I'd try a heavier setup with no front swaybar for a change,

If its rubbish, custom swaybar is the go.

I tried spacing the stocker down, but wasnt happy with the results I got.

If it was a stock sump I would just notch / ive the sump a small releif.

[r33_racer]

You can get a front swaybar with a bigger offset bend in it to clear those sumps. I think whiteline sell them...

[R32Abuser]

Yeh...problem is that I dont want to have to get another sway-bar since I have already paid for this upgraded one. Sure I could sell it, but its just another hassle I don't want to have to deal with.

I think spacing the sway bar down will be the way to go. If necessary I will get those whiteline S Links. My standard links need replacing anyway.

If I still have problems, guess the way forward will be to modify the sump, or get a new swaybar...neither of which I will like doing.

[Beer Baron]

best bet is sell your swaybar and buy the whiteline one which is made to fit with RB30...

[bubba]

Finally dropped the 30 back in the car last night and with the engine mounts bolted with stock holes there is about 10mm clearance between the swaybar and ASR sump, will throw a couple of shitty pics up later.

[bubba]

Heaps of room!

[r33_racer]

Heaps of room!

What capacity is that sump?

[bubba]

6.5L I believe, it's pretty much a High Energy Pro-circuit sump but several hundred dollars cheaper.

[r33_racer]

Cool beans.

So thats 6.5L to the high mark on the dipstick, or total sump volume? You would assume to the high line?