Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry... From a different run :)

The only boost plot I have is on paper from a 20 psi run from a lil later in the night and it Shows 20 psi @ 3350 odd with 18 from about 3250

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got a boost plot for that?? If its full boost at 3200rpm, I'm curious to see why the torque curve climb like its spooling until 3600-3700ish rpm?!

+1

Sorry to bring up an older off-topic thread that is going nowhere. But Lithium makes a v good point. :banana:

(first time I have used peanut butter jelly man I swear)

Haha, but yeah I am still interested to see too - there have been claims for spool like that floating for GT2835s etc which take a bit of credit from GT3076Rs being a good unit for in the high 200/low 300kw area I'm yet to see a GT2835 or GT3071R hit over 1.1bar before 3500rpm.

I'll try to remember to take a photo of one I have sitting around on paper...

If you have a look at my old motor's graphs though, from memory it was 20 psi by 34xx anyway

I'd post one but I'm on iphail atm

All 2835 setups should be seeing boost that early. It is not the same as a 3071... It's got a .68 rear Remember ;)

Haha, but yeah I am still interested to see too - there have been claims for spool like that floating for GT2835s etc which take a bit of credit from GT3076Rs being a good unit for in the high 200/low 300kw area I'm yet to see a GT2835 or GT3071R hit over 1.1bar before 3500rpm.

On the road my 2835 ProS:

2nd gear: 4000rpm, 21psi

3rd gear: 3500rpm, 21psi

4th gear: 3000rpm, 21psi

Obviously 4th gear: 3000rpm, 21psi is basically usless. No tyre frying power there.

I always assumed that when people spoke about when they get full boost by in the rpm range, it meant in second or third gear...

here I am thinking why arnt I hitting 21psi by 3200rpm in 2nd gear...

I always assumed that when people spoke about when they get full boost by in the rpm range, it meant in second or third gear...

here I am thinking why arnt I hitting 21psi by 3200rpm in 2nd gear...

well it requires engine load to spool the turbo. 4th gear is going to have far more load then 2nd ;)

well it requires engine load to spool the turbo. 4th gear is going to have far more load then 2nd ;)

so I gather I need to look at my boost gauge in 4th gear full throttle....

hmmm that'll be an interesting task to complete... how fast is that again?? lol

why is it useless? the fact that it spools all the way to 21 psi at 3000 rom is a very good thing

I mean 4th gear, 3000rpm, short-stroke, 2.5L engine has no power there. Doesn't matter how much boost I have, I won't be frying me tires.

I mean 4th gear, 3000rpm, short-stroke, 2.5L engine has no power there. Doesn't matter how much boost I have, I won't be frying me tires.

boost = torque yes?

if your making 21 psi @ 3000 rpm then your peak torque is pretty low.. and therefore you'd be rapidly accelerating from that point onwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...