Jump to content
SAU Community

  

93 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd throw up a poll to see how everyone shifts whether it be during everyday cruising or on the track. I personally just use my ears and if I'm really going for it then ears + as soon as I JUST feel it stop pulling as hard is when I shift, that's generally anyway not always. What do you think the best sense is or whether technology/equipment is far better?

Edited by Borci88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366803-how-do-you-sense-your-shift-points/
Share on other sites

everyday driving, it's usually around 2500 to 3000rpm, but it's more just done instinctively as what provides enough acceleration while still keeping both the rpm and the throttle percentage low to get good fuel economy.

in performance mode though, i use the redline as my guide. the car pulls hard to redline so there's no point changing earlier. if you go buy the "it's feeling like it's not pulling as hard" theory then you also need to pay close attention to whether it pulls as hard once you change gears, because sometimes even though the acceleration rate is slowing down, the acceleration is still faster than in the next gear.

a mix of sound, timing and the feel of the car. It's not 100% though. Hit limiter jumping on a hwy the other day.

SRs tend to drop off a bit before redline so i tend to change a bit earlier, if going hard.

general traffic 3500. then it varies depending on hills, slow cars, and how fast you wanna get around that slow car.

on the track. redline, the gearing i find is beautifully set in these cars, snapping the next gear at redline seems to pull the hardest into the next one and so on. (standard R33)

i find it doesnt really stop pulling before redline, if so only ever so slightly. But those few extra revs will get you higher into the peak rev range for the next gear.

Too many factors... In my Pootrol, I change up at about 1500-4000, depending on how much noise I want to make, (speed is not a factor, cause it is leaisurely no matter what revs..) In the GTR, between 2000-8000, depending on a lot of factors

I plot the torque curve, then calculate the tractive effort at 50RPM increments in each gear throughout the entire rev range. I then calculate the section of the curve that gives the biggest area under the curve for each gear change, which gives me the shift point for each gear. Then I program my shift light for the optimum gear change point for each gear

Not really. Actually the rev limiter does a pretty good job of telling me when to change :thumbsup:

In the Rex somewhere around 6500. In the Hoonda, it's about 8500 (cutout at 8700) and in the Pathfinder about 2500-3000

Daily driving its the seat of the pants. It will depend on road gradient, the speed limit, traffic speed, etc.

On the track, in the lower gears I'll do it by feel/sound. In the higher gears I'll watch the tacho when I can hear the engine getting close to the cutout.

general traffic 3500. then it varies depending on hills, slow cars, and how fast you wanna get around that slow car.

on the track. redline, the gearing i find is beautifully set in these cars, snapping the next gear at redline seems to pull the hardest into the next one and so on. (standard R33)

i find it doesnt really stop pulling before redline, if so only ever so slightly. But those few extra revs will get you higher into the peak rev range for the next gear.

thought about this on the next drive after posting....traffic sucks....no one does the speed limit...usually around 2000 as granny driving seems to be the only way most people drive these days ...:glare:

but in general keeping the boost gauge on the vacuum side of things makes for better fuel economy. so i make that work as best possible.

I tell usually by sound at lower gears and tacho at higher gears, and in practice (on the street) I always short shift before 5000rpm. I probably exceed 5000rpm about once per week at most (daily driving). Can't remember the last time I went past 6000rpm, on the street it just isn't required (theoretically it would be required for a drag race).

On the street in 1st and 2nd gear with any sort of corner I short shift to get into the next gear so I can ride the torque wave through and out of the corner. This means precise throttle modulation is less of a factor and it saves a gear change and means less wear(2nd has more power but can't usually put it all to the ground). Adding bumps into the equation in Sydney just makes it even more relevant.

Just cruising I change at the point the revs start at 2000rpm -2200rpm in the next gear....or what feels right.

Edited by simpletool

Only ever play close attention to the tacho when on WOT

This

Cruising around I just change gears. Not by noise, not exactly by feel... I just throw it to the next cog. Apparently I'm known to shift below 2000 rpm like this, especially in my Subie :laugh:

shift for best economy most of the time , 2500rpm so it sounds like booooar boooarrr :huh:

after a while this can become boring and opportunities arise for some booarrrr rrr ashhhhhhhhhh du dudududu, and repeat lol :no::yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...