Jump to content
SAU Community

What to do with R32 GTST RB20DET to get it into the low 12s in the 1/4 mile (400m)


Recommended Posts

Hey neil_se and -Joel-, fundamently to get a fwd off the line well u need slicks due to obvious traction problems, u guys have a clear advantage over us obviously due to the car being rwd!

BTW my car weighs 1100 kg, a little lighter that an s13 but not much!

But back on to topic, i think it'd be nice to build a serious ca to run those times down the quarter, but i don't think u'll do it with the low quality imprts we inherentily get. Just in general the silvia being an older car it will have a few miles on it and hence be i porrere condition, i.e trying to obtain 12's may be a task without blowing up the motor or rebuilding urs. If u were to rebuild urs, and go the aftermarket ecu, fmic, 3inch exhaust, VL T3, Custom manifold and 550cc injectors, then u'd definately have a very quick car able of the times u want.

However the whole hassel of pulling the motor out and putting it back in which may make u think hey why not throw the rb in! Being a 6 the motor itself may be happier supporting similar powerr due to the fact that the same power only will be needed however it is spred of 6 cyl rather than 4 making it easier for u to mod it and not blow it up. Do the same mods to it as the ca, probably a t4 rather than t3 and it'll be a formidable street car!

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So who really gives a toss!!!

So how do I run 12's?

You tell 'em tiger.... my thoughts are that i may be close to a high 11 if i play with susp and tyres, something im not too keen on doing. Tyres are ok, but i like my susp too much to change just to get better 1/4 times.

I have a 2nd hand TD06-20g, HKS cooler, GTR Injectors, clutch, re-mapped ECU, and before i venture onto Calder ill have cam gears, GTR cams and most likely some BF Goodrich Drag radials on 16" R32 GTR rear rims / or just some D01J Type R 17s. So power and tyre wise i should be good for a low 12, maybe a high 11, but who knows how suitable my susp and driving will be.

What i need is someone telling me rough time difference between running 16" BF Goodrish drag radials on lightweight GTR rims, and 17" D01Js on lightweight 17s, both rubber 235 or 245 wide....0.5second difference....0.2, none at all?

You tell 'em tiger.... my thoughts are that i may be close to a high 11 if i play with susp and tyres, something im not too keen on doing. Tyres are ok, but i like my susp too much to change just to get better 1/4 times.

I have a 2nd hand TD06-20g, HKS cooler, GTR Injectors, clutch, re-mapped ECU, and before i venture onto Calder ill have cam gears, GTR cams and most likely some BF Goodrich Drag radials on 16" R32 GTR rear rims / or just some D01J Type R 17s.  So power and tyre wise i should be good for a low 12, maybe a high 11, but who knows how suitable my susp and driving will be.

What i need is someone telling me rough time difference between running 16" BF Goodrish drag radials on lightweight GTR rims, and 17" D01Js on lightweight 17s, both rubber 235 or 245 wide....0.5second difference....0.2, none at all?

Sounds like you are going to have a well sorted package there Roy

I would say the BF Drag radials will give you a much better 60ft time than even the best R rated semi-slicks. Don't know how much exactly, as I have never seen or heard of the same car running back to back on differant rubber

My plan is for about 220-230rwkw, with as much mid-range as possible. I dont want to change suspension to a drag type setup, as thats cheating in my books - run it they way you drive it everyday - hopefully it will be enough to run a 12

What type of gearbox/diff are you running?

What type of gearbox/diff are you running?

Standard Engine - Check :(

Standard Gearbox - Check :)

Standard Diff - Check :) Still hasnt started to open wheel, mayeb because i dont do burnouts etc

Have a 6 puck single plate clutch.

... and something my car lacks is midrange, so im relying on bucket loads of top end. The mid range situation is the reason im going for cam gears and cam change. I dont even know how much power im making, other then it makes me smile :)

Standard Engine - Check :(  

Standard Gearbox - Check :)  

Standard Diff - Check :)  Still hasnt started to open wheel, mayeb because i dont do burnouts etc

Have a 6 puck single plate clutch.

... and something my car lacks is midrange, so im relying on bucket loads of top end.  The mid range situation is the reason im going for cam gears and cam change. I dont even know how much power im making, other then it makes me smile :)

So you did you decided to run those GTR cams Roy? I'm thinking seriously on the GTR's after we spoke over pm a few days ago... They should wake up my GT25R a fair amount (that turbo is the reason I'm not buying the cams until winter). Did you decide to use them with just GTR springs or the whole solid works?

I'd imagine with the 20 in my car, I should be about the same weight as you are... or slightly less. Hopefully I can pull the same low 12's high 11's that you might run (Hybrid FMIC, 3-4" tapered GReddy TR2 exhaust, no cat, MKIV fuel pump, 550cc S5 inj, K&N pod filter, S-AFC 5 knob, and RB25 MAF). I still might need some more control over the engine... not sure though.

Sounds like you are going to have a well sorted package there Roy

I would say the BF Drag radials will give you a much better 60ft time than even the best R rated semi-slicks. Don't know how much exactly, as I have never seen or heard of the same car running back to back on different rubber

My plan is for about 220-230rwkw, with as much mid-range as possible. I don’t want to change suspension to a drag type setup, as that’s cheating in my books - run it they way you drive it everyday - hopefully it will be enough to run a 12

What type of gearbox/diff are you running?

Hi Chris, I can't give you R32 GTST or 180SX times but I can give you R34 GTT times which may help. Same car, 290 rwkw using 16" and 17" wheels did;

11.9 at 120 mph on 17" Nitto 555's

12.4 at 114 mph on 17" normal road tyres

11.6 at 123 mph on 16" Goodyear drag slicks

As for drag style suspension, this car had much softer rear spring rates than you would find in the typical Japanese coil overs. But what I consider about the correct rates for Australian roads anyway. The wheel alignment settings where optimised for straight lines and off the line traction (no neg camber and no toe out). Plus the dynamic camber change angles where optimised (didn't go too negative on squat). Plus we added a little anti squat to the rear geometry. The rear stabiliser bars (22mm) is set on its softest setting and the front bar (27mm) is on its hardest. This sort of setting up (optimisation) was easy worth 0.5 second.

None of this detracts from its road handling, if fact it probably has a better ride/handling compromise than most. When we take it to the circuit we, of course, change these setting to something more suited to going around corners on a very smooth surface. Otherwise we would be compromising the lap times and ripping the edges of the tyres to shreds.

So if you want your car to be multitalented then you have to have adjustability, that's not "cheating" it's common sense.

Hope that helps

i reakon you migh as well buy a gtr straight off the bat. by the time u spend the necessary cash on a gtst u could be sitting in godzilla with few mods and run those times. The gtr would have better resale and turn way more heads. cheers

i reakon you migh as well buy a gtr straight off the bat. by the time u spend the necessary cash on a gtst u could be sitting in godzilla with few mods and run those times. The gtr would have better resale and turn way more heads. cheers

Mate wake up, for what a stock as a rock 93-94 R32 GTR was costing a year ago, I was able to buy a modded off its tits 1996 R33 gtst, and trust me when I say no GTR with a few mods like you quoted comes any where near me time wise down the 1/4

The GTR can never lose can it? hahaha

So you did you decided to run those GTR cams Roy?  I'm thinking seriously on the GTR's after we spoke over pm a few days ago...  They should wake up my GT25R a fair amount (that turbo is the reason I'm not buying the cams until winter).  Did you decide to use them with just GTR springs or the whole solid works?

I'd imagine with the 20 in my car, I should be about the same weight as you are... or slightly less.  Hopefully I can pull the same low 12's high 11's that you might run (Hybrid FMIC, 3-4" tapered GReddy TR2 exhaust, no cat, MKIV fuel pump, 550cc S5 inj, K&N pod filter, S-AFC 5 knob, and RB25 MAF).  I still might need some more control over the engine... not sure though.

Im in a different state to my car at the moment, but when i get my hands on it im going to drop some new spark plugs in it and at the same time give it a compression test. If all ise well then ill throw the GTR cams and cam gears, some new valve springs and be on my merry way, still using hydraulic lifters...if the engine isnt in the best of health, well ... who knows.

Well good luck bud! Hopefully all turns out well. It was said my motor had 65k on the clock when it was pulled. I will be checking mine as well when it goes in the car... luckily that countdown has turned into days now... sometime next month! I have to buy a turbo now due to my buddy needing my stock one more than me (his daily driver 20 turbo went on him 2 weeks ago). Hey, what are friend for right?

It will be nice to have a quick car at the drags... but I really can't wait to put her on a circuit or auto-x!

I've owned a SR20DET 180sx and a CA18DET 180sx (which was the strawberry face). Anyways, I found the CA18 actually revved a lot more easily than the SR (actually very similar revving to my current RB20DE R32). I managed to get 174rwkw out of the CA18, never actually modified the SR so I couldn't tell ya how differently it responded.

get around 300 rwhp to do mid-high 12s 340-350 rwhp for high 11s. Some traction and a decent drive. Its almost that easy, many threads on how to get power out of our engines.

Ive got r31 with rb20det with hi flow vg30 turbo, mines ecu 1.2 bar boost and the normal bigger fuel pumps full exhaust front mount and ive done a 12.6 at ~113 mph. With tuned ecu bigger injectors im hoping to do a low low 12

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...