Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone tell me how does the overboost protection on a pfc equipped with a boost control kit works?

I know it will do some sort of saftey cut when boost goes over target by 0.25kg/cm2, but does it just drop back boost by varing the duty cycle of the solenoid itself or does it do an internal fuel or ign cut?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368029-pfc-overboost-protection/
Share on other sites

I don't know for sure, but the whole point of such protection is to protect against a loss of boost control. So using the boost control gear that is not working (and hence allowed the overboost) is not smart. Therefore I would expect it to be an ignition cut, like the original ECU.

Wonder if this is a myth, I played around with my old boost kit on the PowerFC and the boost spike like +0.5 bar when I played around with the duty cycles, no cut there at all.

I had the boost set at 1 bar, with a pretty high duty cycle of around 60. In 2nd gear, the boost spike to like 1.45 bar and nothing :)

Wonder if this is a myth, I played around with my old boost kit on the PowerFC and the boost spike like +0.5 bar when I played around with the duty cycles, no cut there at all.

I had the boost set at 1 bar, with a pretty high duty cycle of around 60. In 2nd gear, the boost spike to like 1.45 bar and nothing :)

Definately works but its often glitchy some of the supra (map based) pfc's false cut even if there is no pfc boost control kit fitted... you need to input 2.0bar on the boost settings tabs.

No myth John.

You were going the wrong way if you wanted to test it out.

Set your boost way low, say 0.4 bar then give it a try.

The turbo will easily/quickly boost over approx 0.7 bar and you'll then experience the cut.

(Cut occurs if actual boost exceeds set boost by >0.25kg/cm3)

At normal boost settings, you'll rarely see the cut.

Wonder if this is a myth, I played around with my old boost kit on the PowerFC and the boost spike like +0.5 bar when I played around with the duty cycles, no cut there at all.

I had the boost set at 1 bar, with a pretty high duty cycle of around 60. In 2nd gear, the boost spike to like 1.45 bar and nothing :)

Yea...tested it and confirmed its a HARD fuel cut at 0.25kg/cm2 over the set target boost.

Can someone tell me if the the 2 wire harness for the boost control solenoid comes off the main engine harness(gtr) or if it comes off the wiring some where else in the engine bay??....I

Yea...tested it and confirmed its a HARD fuel cut at 0.25kg/cm2 over the set target boost.

Can someone tell me if the the 2 wire harness for the boost control solenoid comes off the main engine harness(gtr) or if it comes off the wiring some where else in the engine bay??....I

factory boost solenoid wiring.

hard fuel cut from memory, on the last supra i tested it on.

Trent...is this something new? When my car was tuned you said all you could do was set the maps so that if it goes into the dangerzone it would overfuel and pull all timing out...

Trent...is this something new? When my car was tuned you said all you could do was set the maps so that if it goes into the dangerzone it would overfuel and pull all timing out...

were you using the pfc boost controller? i thought you had an avcr?

im using PFC boost kit and have been for a while

very happy with it and works well

set and forget

and has bonus of simplistic safety cut instaed of unlimited boost

also when you use the boost kit by default boost correction is enabled in the powerfc

from memory it has boost correction for airtemp (GTR only) and low water temp (from memory it runs less boost on cold water)

In the gtst it is cut and shut to the stock harness for the stock boost solenoid. Not sure on a GTR but. It is in Paul's PFC FAQ somewhere

Yes gtr is the same

factory boost solenoid wiring.

Cant find it :D Its a rb26 ...but not in a gtr

I dont think its on the main enigine harness tho, ie. the one that goes into the plastic rail along the intake side cam cover, but it has to link back to the ecu somehow obviously to get control on the solenoid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...