Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys new to the forum.so i bought a 34 gtr a few months back had a fair amout of work done to it i bought it out of sa.it had a jun stroker kit in it had a part fail on it so im now building a 30/26 combo for it i have most of the parts and from people that i have been talking to its a bigger job then i first thought.has anyone fitted a 30/26 into a 34 on here if so what problems have they come across? i have been told the bonnet has to be cut or is this only on the r32s? from what i have found out the engine will lift up by 40mm and the sump will lower by 10mm.is this true? ill up load some pictures as i go but if any one has some info would appreciate it thanks.also i will be selling off some of the old stuff if anyone is after anything pm me and i may be able to help i will have things like a jun crank and rods that have done 7500ks and have been tested that are in very good conditon still.a block but needs sleves set of nitto valves and so on. ill get some pics up soon tho for anyone that is looking to do the same thing. so ill do a prgress photos the engine is now out.the new block and head are all done just need to pick them up and get started on putting it together.

post-86117-0-51610000-1309310261_thumb.jpg

thats on the way back from picking it up

post-86117-0-29425400-1309310295_thumb.jpg

post-86117-0-78455000-1309310458_thumb.jpg

engine just after being built post-86117-0-34869700-1309310470_thumb.jpg

in the wrokshoppost-86117-0-03005900-1309310484_thumb.jpg

post-86117-0-92913000-1309310734_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369356-2630-r34-gtr-now-with-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Stock R34's really only have about 30mm of clearance from the timing belt cover to the bonnet. Add some height to the engine and factor in how it moves around on a launch and its not hard to imagine contact happening.

Your considerations are the height increase of the block plus the height of the spacer plate, minus how much you want to compromise suspension front suspension geometry by spacing down the cross member. Sadly I dont think there is many people on here that have done the 26/30's in R34 GTR's. BoostedR would be one to ask though as fitment is very similar with the R33 GTR's.

ok then from what im told the plate to fit the 30 block to the front diff will drop the sump 10mm so i have to space the crossmeber out about the same.my other problem i think im going to run into is the car has a hypertune intake and i have a feeling its going to hit on the clutch master.ill have a look at the other users cars and see how they have gone about it thanks for the advice guys should help heaps.im happy to get a carbon bonnet for the car as i will not be cutting the factory bonnet.yeah the car was built by crd for the guy i bought it off of now i have it i would like to get a bit more power out of it and as i had the 3ltr avalible i thought i might aswel use it.it made 460 at the wheels.the car is what i have wanted for a long time so i just want to make a few changes to make it just right for myself.thanks everybody for there help so far

ok then from what im told the plate to fit the 30 block to the front diff will drop the sump 10mm so i have to space the crossmeber out about the same.my other problem i think im going to run into is the car has a hypertune intake and i have a feeling its going to hit on the clutch master.ill have a look at the other users cars and see how they have gone about it thanks for the advice guys should help heaps.im happy to get a carbon bonnet for the car as i will not be cutting the factory bonnet.yeah the car was built by crd for the guy i bought it off of now i have it i would like to get a bit more power out of it and as i had the 3ltr avalible i thought i might aswel use it.it made 460 at the wheels.the car is what i have wanted for a long time so i just want to make a few changes to make it just right for myself.thanks everybody for there help so far

Need to ask, what is your wish list for a 3L bottom end ( what gains are you looking for)??

ok then from what im told the plate to fit the 30 block to the front diff will drop the sump 10mm so i have to space the crossmeber out about the same.

Not quite right. Spacing the crossmember down moves the whole cross member - including engine mounts - down. The engine mounts attach to the block, and so spacing down the cross member will leave the clearance between the sump and the crossmember unchanced (ie putting the spacer in there will still move the sump 10mm closer to the cross member, regardless of how you space down the x-member).

The thing to have a look at is the existing clearance between the sump and cross-member (esp power steering lines) , and whether you think there will be clearance issues. You may find that it's fine. Remember, if your engine mounts are flogged out, new ones will increase this clearance.

The purpose of spacing the cross-member down is to move the entire motor assembly down relative to the bonnet. In an r32 there is a practical limitation on how thick your spacer can be due to the length of the thread on the bolt. Really you couldn't be able to go more than 10mm with your spacer.

Overall I don't think the problems would be as great on an r34 as they would with an r32, purely because the r34 comes with a 2.5 litre motor and cross-over manifold as standard, whereas the r32 had either a shorter 2.0 or a taller 2.6 with a side-mounted plenum.

On r32s, the issue with the plenum appears to be solved by using the r33 clutch master, but I dunno if the r33 clutch m/c is larger or smaller than the r34 one.

Who made the sump??

crydon made the sump for the car its 9ltrs.

with the turbo im looking at putting a gtx front wheel in it.with the 2.7 it was starting to make power around 4700 but with the new front wheel i cant see it droping the response to much.

Not quite right. Spacing the crossmember down moves the whole cross member - including engine mounts - down. The engine mounts attach to the block, and so spacing down the cross member will leave the clearance between the sump and the crossmember unchanced (ie putting the spacer in there will still move the sump 10mm closer to the cross member, regardless of how you space down the x-member).

The thing to have a look at is the existing clearance between the sump and cross-member (esp power steering lines) , and whether you think there will be clearance issues. You may find that it's fine. Remember, if your engine mounts are flogged out, new ones will increase this clearance.

The purpose of spacing the cross-member down is to move the entire motor assembly down relative to the bonnet. In an r32 there is a practical limitation on how thick your spacer can be due to the length of the thread on the bolt. Really you couldn't be able to go more than 10mm with your spacer.

Overall I don't think the problems would be as great on an r34 as they would with an r32, purely because the r34 comes with a 2.5 litre motor and cross-over manifold as standard, whereas the r32 had either a shorter 2.0 or a taller 2.6 with a side-mounted plenum.

On r32s, the issue with the plenum appears to be solved by using the r33 clutch master, but I dunno if the r33 clutch m/c is larger or smaller than the r34 one.

the engine is out now so i cant check but from what i can remember it was only around 5mm but could be wrong.the engine mount are only new nismo ones so should not have a problem there.i have spoke to hills motorsport in syd they have told me that the max you can space the crossmeber is around 10mm due to the lenght of the bolts but that was on a 32 and the have not done a 34 but i would think they would be the same.

with the clutch master side of things i was thinking of taking the vacum assist of the clutch muster (if possible) to have it sit alot closser to the fire wall or try to fit another one from something else.just hope it does not get real hard as it has a quad plate in it but my other car has the same clutch but a twin plate and it is ok just sucks a little in alot of slow crawl traffic.

i hope to be able to get started on the engine in the next 2 week as i have a dead line for the car so will be able to add any problems we come acrross

Not sure if this will be helpful, but this is a high octane sump on an R34 engine on an R34 crossmember with Nismo mounts. Plenty of room as you can see. But dropping the engine further by lowering the mount positions on the subframe, or re-drilling the alloy mounts so they mount higher on the block would definatly have at least 10-15mm of sump extending below the flat section under the crossmember. So there would be no protection for it should you hit something on the road, speed bump... or whatever.

Your 10lt CRD sump might afford you some options though, as you could remove that 10-15mm from the bottom of the sump and sacrifice a little oil capacity to allow the engine to be dropped further. 7lt is plenty with a trap-door sump and the propper sized oil restricters in the head.

post-26553-0-85431200-1309595451_thumb.jpg

Edited by GTRNUR

that was the day i picked it up and the first time i had seen the car i bought it sight unseen was a very nice when i got to see it and it was how it was listed plus alot of other little goodies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-F0l2BGkDtg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...