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hi guys new to the forum.so i bought a 34 gtr a few months back had a fair amout of work done to it i bought it out of sa.it had a jun stroker kit in it had a part fail on it so im now building a 30/26 combo for it i have most of the parts and from people that i have been talking to its a bigger job then i first thought.has anyone fitted a 30/26 into a 34 on here if so what problems have they come across? i have been told the bonnet has to be cut or is this only on the r32s? from what i have found out the engine will lift up by 40mm and the sump will lower by 10mm.is this true? ill up load some pictures as i go but if any one has some info would appreciate it thanks.also i will be selling off some of the old stuff if anyone is after anything pm me and i may be able to help i will have things like a jun crank and rods that have done 7500ks and have been tested that are in very good conditon still.a block but needs sleves set of nitto valves and so on. ill get some pics up soon tho for anyone that is looking to do the same thing. so ill do a prgress photos the engine is now out.the new block and head are all done just need to pick them up and get started on putting it together.

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thats on the way back from picking it up

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engine just after being built post-86117-0-34869700-1309310470_thumb.jpg

in the wrokshoppost-86117-0-03005900-1309310484_thumb.jpg

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Stock R34's really only have about 30mm of clearance from the timing belt cover to the bonnet. Add some height to the engine and factor in how it moves around on a launch and its not hard to imagine contact happening.

Your considerations are the height increase of the block plus the height of the spacer plate, minus how much you want to compromise suspension front suspension geometry by spacing down the cross member. Sadly I dont think there is many people on here that have done the 26/30's in R34 GTR's. BoostedR would be one to ask though as fitment is very similar with the R33 GTR's.

ok then from what im told the plate to fit the 30 block to the front diff will drop the sump 10mm so i have to space the crossmeber out about the same.my other problem i think im going to run into is the car has a hypertune intake and i have a feeling its going to hit on the clutch master.ill have a look at the other users cars and see how they have gone about it thanks for the advice guys should help heaps.im happy to get a carbon bonnet for the car as i will not be cutting the factory bonnet.yeah the car was built by crd for the guy i bought it off of now i have it i would like to get a bit more power out of it and as i had the 3ltr avalible i thought i might aswel use it.it made 460 at the wheels.the car is what i have wanted for a long time so i just want to make a few changes to make it just right for myself.thanks everybody for there help so far

ok then from what im told the plate to fit the 30 block to the front diff will drop the sump 10mm so i have to space the crossmeber out about the same.my other problem i think im going to run into is the car has a hypertune intake and i have a feeling its going to hit on the clutch master.ill have a look at the other users cars and see how they have gone about it thanks for the advice guys should help heaps.im happy to get a carbon bonnet for the car as i will not be cutting the factory bonnet.yeah the car was built by crd for the guy i bought it off of now i have it i would like to get a bit more power out of it and as i had the 3ltr avalible i thought i might aswel use it.it made 460 at the wheels.the car is what i have wanted for a long time so i just want to make a few changes to make it just right for myself.thanks everybody for there help so far

Need to ask, what is your wish list for a 3L bottom end ( what gains are you looking for)??

ok then from what im told the plate to fit the 30 block to the front diff will drop the sump 10mm so i have to space the crossmeber out about the same.

Not quite right. Spacing the crossmember down moves the whole cross member - including engine mounts - down. The engine mounts attach to the block, and so spacing down the cross member will leave the clearance between the sump and the crossmember unchanced (ie putting the spacer in there will still move the sump 10mm closer to the cross member, regardless of how you space down the x-member).

The thing to have a look at is the existing clearance between the sump and cross-member (esp power steering lines) , and whether you think there will be clearance issues. You may find that it's fine. Remember, if your engine mounts are flogged out, new ones will increase this clearance.

The purpose of spacing the cross-member down is to move the entire motor assembly down relative to the bonnet. In an r32 there is a practical limitation on how thick your spacer can be due to the length of the thread on the bolt. Really you couldn't be able to go more than 10mm with your spacer.

Overall I don't think the problems would be as great on an r34 as they would with an r32, purely because the r34 comes with a 2.5 litre motor and cross-over manifold as standard, whereas the r32 had either a shorter 2.0 or a taller 2.6 with a side-mounted plenum.

On r32s, the issue with the plenum appears to be solved by using the r33 clutch master, but I dunno if the r33 clutch m/c is larger or smaller than the r34 one.

Who made the sump??

crydon made the sump for the car its 9ltrs.

with the turbo im looking at putting a gtx front wheel in it.with the 2.7 it was starting to make power around 4700 but with the new front wheel i cant see it droping the response to much.

Not quite right. Spacing the crossmember down moves the whole cross member - including engine mounts - down. The engine mounts attach to the block, and so spacing down the cross member will leave the clearance between the sump and the crossmember unchanced (ie putting the spacer in there will still move the sump 10mm closer to the cross member, regardless of how you space down the x-member).

The thing to have a look at is the existing clearance between the sump and cross-member (esp power steering lines) , and whether you think there will be clearance issues. You may find that it's fine. Remember, if your engine mounts are flogged out, new ones will increase this clearance.

The purpose of spacing the cross-member down is to move the entire motor assembly down relative to the bonnet. In an r32 there is a practical limitation on how thick your spacer can be due to the length of the thread on the bolt. Really you couldn't be able to go more than 10mm with your spacer.

Overall I don't think the problems would be as great on an r34 as they would with an r32, purely because the r34 comes with a 2.5 litre motor and cross-over manifold as standard, whereas the r32 had either a shorter 2.0 or a taller 2.6 with a side-mounted plenum.

On r32s, the issue with the plenum appears to be solved by using the r33 clutch master, but I dunno if the r33 clutch m/c is larger or smaller than the r34 one.

the engine is out now so i cant check but from what i can remember it was only around 5mm but could be wrong.the engine mount are only new nismo ones so should not have a problem there.i have spoke to hills motorsport in syd they have told me that the max you can space the crossmeber is around 10mm due to the lenght of the bolts but that was on a 32 and the have not done a 34 but i would think they would be the same.

with the clutch master side of things i was thinking of taking the vacum assist of the clutch muster (if possible) to have it sit alot closser to the fire wall or try to fit another one from something else.just hope it does not get real hard as it has a quad plate in it but my other car has the same clutch but a twin plate and it is ok just sucks a little in alot of slow crawl traffic.

i hope to be able to get started on the engine in the next 2 week as i have a dead line for the car so will be able to add any problems we come acrross

Not sure if this will be helpful, but this is a high octane sump on an R34 engine on an R34 crossmember with Nismo mounts. Plenty of room as you can see. But dropping the engine further by lowering the mount positions on the subframe, or re-drilling the alloy mounts so they mount higher on the block would definatly have at least 10-15mm of sump extending below the flat section under the crossmember. So there would be no protection for it should you hit something on the road, speed bump... or whatever.

Your 10lt CRD sump might afford you some options though, as you could remove that 10-15mm from the bottom of the sump and sacrifice a little oil capacity to allow the engine to be dropped further. 7lt is plenty with a trap-door sump and the propper sized oil restricters in the head.

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Edited by GTRNUR

that was the day i picked it up and the first time i had seen the car i bought it sight unseen was a very nice when i got to see it and it was how it was listed plus alot of other little goodies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-F0l2BGkDtg

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