Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Car is still on pump fuel haha low boost 30psi would be asking for trouble. It didnt get near that sort of boost levels. Tim not interested in alternate fuels at this stage so going to hit a wall soon for safe power levels

i said 3Bar in relation to fuel pressure (3 bar is 43.5psi) as when quoting injector flows you should always quote the fuel pressure, Sards are rated at 800cc @ 3Bar fuel Pressure, I assumed that the GTR was runnung 3Bar fuel pressure as that is the normal operating pressure. i do not not know what the boost was or what the power is. I estimated power using a BSFC figure of .6 which is also the norm for an RBs on pump. It is possible if the engine is running AFRs in the low 10s it could run out of injectors at lower power levels than i estimated or maybe it was on E85, i know Nick loves that shit....not. :)

Edited by TheGotoGuy

There is a time and place to share results. And that time is when the owner is happy with the results.

A lot of time and effort goes into safely tuning a high power engine too. These are things not to be rushed, that is unless you happen to have endless bags of money to replace all the things you break along the way.

Guess im just weird, i have no trouble sharing specs and details and results good or bad when they are available.

I am transparent when it comes to builds, i don't really understand why Tim wont let Nick post some figures. It makes what it makes regardless, if it performed as expected great, if not then sharing info will lead to rectifying any problems faster.

Thats my view.

POWERPLAY STORYTIME.....

Friday morning the car was driven from Bundy to Brisbane (4 hours) for a decent alignment, tune and a powerplay thrashing. Car ran perfect whole way down.

Took the car into Accurate Supsension Services for it to be better setup for street/track. Reccommend them to anyone wanting a quality setup. Car handles so much better then before, tested it at QR threw it into a few corners at speed and stuck like glue, it used to have the tendency to go into understeer when quickly turned in. It also squirmed and walked under power and heavy braking. All that is now gone.

IMAG0227.jpg

Once that was done it was taken to Mark at Godzilla Motorsport for its long awaited tune. The plan was feed it as much boost until the fuel system wouldnt allow anymore. Early tuning resulted in some suprising figures on very low boost levels. Alot of attention was paid to cruise and transition from decel to accel tuning. Trying to make the car a nice car to drive not only just powerful.

The end result transformed the car, it can potter along in 5:30pm banked up highway traffic (as we found out) without a cough or hesitation. The fuel economy has improved largely too. Gotten 50klms so far more out of a tank along highway.

Trying to get ahold dyno sheet from Mark so can post up current power figure and delivery. Injector duty cycle started to get high (90+%) so Mark added some extra fuel pressure to compansate so a bit more. got a extra 40hp before 92% IDC was reached and stopped at that power and boost level....a bit short of the expected boost that was planned

Its not too bad off boost, ample enough power to cruise along road and climb hills without dropping down gears, like the old 2.7 required. Power comes on hard at 5400 and is suprisingly a flat linear curve all the way till 8500. Unsure of when power will drop off but we all agreed 8500 is enough to rev it at this stage.

BADSIDE is the big cam idle has dissappeared completely :( :( :(. Going to talk to Mark about getting that back. Sounds too cool to get rid off :).

POWERPLAY.

Woke up saturday morning to a car with only half a clutch pedal throw, a little bit of 530am hotel carpark spanner swinging got a full clutch back again. went to track and in process the clutch was giving dramas again. Checked it out in the staging lanes and found the clutch master cylinder had decided it was going to start leaking very slowly and bleed off. Was not going to get a cylider on weekend so just kept eye on fluid level and adjusted things as we went.

On track car performed faultless, Needed more power as always. won some races lost some too. all in fun.

Car made it back to bundy with only a small oil leak (suspected oil relocation adapter and the clutch master leaking) For its first proper outing its done awesome.

Tim is working out what to do with the car next, gearbox upgrade, fuel system, Ecu, but for now just going to drive it until feels slow again and the start chasing power

i said it before & i'll say it again - when i built my 26/30, i should have bolted a t51r on it (as advised by my tuner)

Cant go past the t51r proven and will always get the result, sounds so good on full boost too! What turbo did you end up going for??

This link is giving me serious headaches though, the want for this setup inside a street driven lightweight R32 GTR doing easy 10 second passes down the quater and then backing up on a circuit is so tempting!!

http://www.spoolimports.com/articles-1/rb34det-results

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...