Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep I agree with Dale. Go with a 245/45-18 as I did, they are the same size as VE commy factory wheels so price and choice is pretty good.

They also help to fill the guards better than a 40 series unless you excessively lower your car to do so but then you run into other problems.

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

What's the prob Syd? You got the bulb out, right? Is it a weird one with no direct aftermarket replacement? Pic?

I don't have those switches otherwise I'd have already pulled mine out & sent it to you :)

Edited by Commsman
  • 2 months later...

just did a minor service this morning and found out that the inner CV boot has been split...anyone know part number for the boot? my mechanic suggested to use the universal boot but he's not sure what size is needed...help please, thanks!

just did a minor service this morning and found out that the inner CV boot has been split...anyone know part number for the boot? my mechanic suggested to use the universal boot but he's not sure what size is needed...help please, thanks!

Syd, this will become more common with time, our cars are at that age.

I did a driver's side inner a month ago, I'd suggest tracking down as genuine boot; my CV guy reckoned they're better than the universal boots.

  • 2 years later...

Hey all

just like to say brilliant information you guys have all dug up on m35s for the past few years

Have been reading these forums for quite some time but have a few questions in regards to my project

03 vq25det, 170k on clock. has hdi kit, bc golds and 18x9.5 wolfs 245/45/18s.

Scottys dump on its way and dales suction pipe on its way also, followed by cat back and hks fcon ( i have the harness already-score!) ss1 turbo injectors etc.

1. once the intake pipe and dump are put on will i be having issues with injectors? i dont want to run lean and blow engines

2. what is the best way to give these a boost leak test? after doing fmic and some vac hoses my boost gauge only reads half bar when it used to boost to just shy of one.. i dont want to upset the throttle body etc so info would be marvelous

3. hks fcon. do i have to buy one with a base tune installed or can my hks dealer reprog a 2nd hand one for me? im in NZ and suichi from ST Hi Tec will be doing the tune as he has done reprieves m35 previously.

Not looking for crazy kws but a nice street tune that will leave 20/25 det owners scratching their heads. say around 250atw

thanks a bunch. i think its great stagea owners out their have shared their knowledge its been so helpfull thus far. Zach

1. No, the stock ecu will protect the engine pretty well, it will just throw you through the windscreen if you boost it too hard.

2. Make a bung for the intake and pump 25psi into it. See if it holds air, you should be able to hear any leaks, or use soapy water to find them. Sounds like you may have mucked around with the boost bleed setup, did you replace the hoses to the boost solenoid? There is a restrictor in one...

3. Your dealer should be able to source a base map if he deals with HKS, otherwise you will need a later model Fcon Vpro which has the base map loaded. Have a search, the info is here somewhere. Speak to your tuner about it too.

That power target seems achievable on the SS1 highflow turbo, I guess you don't have access to e85 over there?

Thanks for that, i had replaced the vac hose with the restrictor in it but changed it back shortly after, gauge started reading a little better once i did, but this is what leads me to think it may be a boost leak... or just dodge boost gauge in general.

For a bung in the intake could i remove the bleed hose on the bov pipe (not the boost sensor one) and block it off and dump 25psi down the nipple ( with tight commections etc

obviously)

We can get e85 over here but not at any pump, just by the barrel

Speak to Soichi about the F-Con. He has good contacts with HKS and can get them re-programmed prior to tuning... but get him to confirm a unit is suitable before you buy.

There's a couple on US eBay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...