Jump to content
SAU Community

Lightened Flywheels, worth it?  

97 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

In brief, either my spigot bush or thrust bearing is dying (horrible noises when the clutch is disengaged), so i'm changing my clutch. Already have an Exedy heavy duty clutch kit with new thrust bearing, and got a new rear main, spigot bush and input shaft seal to put in while the gearbox is out.

I've been doing alot of reading:

http://www.skylinesa...is-it-worth-it/

http://www.skylinesa...tened-flywheel/

http://www.skylinesa...ened-flywheels/

(to name a few)

And there are alot of mixed opinions about whether or not a lightened flywheel is worth it. So put together this poll in simple yes/no/unsure style. I can easily get the standard flywheel machined, but I can also get a Nismo Chromoly lightened one at a very good price, and brand new.

My car is %100 daily driver at the moment, but once it's up to a "reliable" spec, and the budget allows, I intend to have a go at drag racing, and eventually (long term) some track work.

Keeping in mind it's DE+T, so the low end response is already pretty good already, but still looking to improve.

All opinions appreciated, and hopefully anyone looking at this in the future can benefit from it. thumbsup.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370436-lightened-flywheels-worth-it/
Share on other sites

Yes it is worth it. A CroMo one will be about 1kg lighter and will fell like it gives 200-300rpm earlier boost threshold. That's pretty good, for the cost.

Lightened flyweheels, as in flywheels that have been machined down to remove weight, should be avoided whenever there is an option to buy a brand new lightweight flywheel. Alloy flywheels seem to offer a mixture of real lightness and shocking chance of crapping out. Especially that useless brand that starts with an F.

Also depends on clutch. If you get a twin plate, don't get a lightened flywheel for a daily driver.

It'll make it nicer to actually use.

Didn't get a twin-plate for that reason, just a slightly better Exedy item over the factory one.

I read that due to the low compression DET engine, take-off and low speed driving can be a p.i.t.a. But figured for a N/A it should be manageable with a reasonable clutch. Drove a GTR with a twin-plate clutch and was not a fan, not for a daily any way.

Didn't get a twin-plate for that reason, just a slightly better Exedy item over the factory one.

I read that due to the low compression DET engine, take-off and low speed driving can be a p.i.t.a. But figured for a N/A it should be manageable with a reasonable clutch. Drove a GTR with a twin-plate clutch and was not a fan, not for a daily any way.

I have a 4 or 4.5 kg flywheel in my nearly standard GTS-t. Didn't really notice any difference on hills, low speed driving or take-off. If anything it decreased NVH when bogging down the engine.

Engine does seem a lot more responsive when rev matching though :)

I'm happy enough With my NPC Flywheel

Billet with cooling vents in the centre for my NPC single plate button. It was more a piece of mind thing for me over anything else. Im not really chucking out the power to be throwing flywheels around but nice to have a new one, and know that at least im getting some cool air to the centre of the clutch.

Rev wise, its a bit more responsive but not a great deal that I can tell..... Mine weighs 6.6kg, been meaning to weigh the stock flywheel, has anyone got a weight for it? Dont think its much heavier but

I'm happy enough With my NPC Flywheel

Billet with cooling vents in the centre for my NPC single plate button. It was more a piece of mind thing for me over anything else. Im not really chucking out the power to be throwing flywheels around but nice to have a new one, and know that at least im getting some cool air to the centre of the clutch.

Rev wise, its a bit more responsive but not a great deal that I can tell..... Mine weighs 6.6kg, been meaning to weigh the stock flywheel, has anyone got a weight for it? Dont think its much heavier but

If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for it? Or was it part of a kit?

Do you believe it was good value for money in terms of response/feel etc, or would you "not do it again" sort of thing?

  • 3 months later...

Also depends on clutch. If you get a twin plate, don't get a lightened flywheel for a daily driver.

It'll make it nicer to actually use.

Shaft me sideways! If you want easy driving get a Auto FFS! :laugh:

I've got an Exedy twin plate with the lighter flywheel that came with it, it takes some skill to drive but it just revs so much more responsively with the lighter mass. The heavy fly wheels make cars feel like slugs in comparison.

+1 for the NPC steel billet lightened flywheel (6.8kg)

I reckon it is magic! The engine is much more responsive; quicker to rev, easier to rev match on down shift and better to drive all around!

TBH I haven't noticed any down side to it at all; motorway, carpark, around town and through the hills it is all good.

If you have to replace the clutch anyway it is an option that is well worth considering...

For less than the price of a Jim Berry full monty I got a clutch (10" HD Organic; good for 300+rwkw) and flywheel from NPC!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...