Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You have no idea what you are talking about.

Comparing a stock exhaust to a stock cooler in the same sentence shows how little of an idea you have.

It wasn't a comparison, it sounded more like another example of. He is saying the stock intercooler isn't designed with the volume flow and capacity of a built up and modded engine. The same can be said about the exhaust, the output of the engine is greater and the original exhaust is not designed with enough flow and volume to let the gasses escape. Again, the injectors could be another example, 370cc injectors will flow just that, but when you need more fuel they run out of capacity. An example is not a comparison. He could have said something out of context like, if you were running a marathon it would be ridiculous to take a smaller popper of juice rather than a larger bottle which could hold more for the race. Sure the popper is good for small sprints but over a long distance run, you need more juice.

GTR fuel pump is good for about 350 - 400rwkw I was told by my tuner. Ive got a 040 brand new incase my GTR pump fails. The 040 will support around the same power and be in a healthier state.

He is saying the stock intercooler isn't designed with the volume flow and capacity of a built up and modded engine.

Sorry, but it does. Been proven countless times now on every circuit GTRs (360-380rwkw) down here running a factory core - it's not even worth going into really.

Oh btw and you can make 370cc injectors flow more than 370cc, its called upping the rail pressure. Very simple concept

You have no idea what you are talking about.

Comparing a stock exhaust to a stock cooler in the same sentence shows how little of an idea you have.

Small exhaust and small IC does not lose efficiency and volume? I am confused...

Silly me, crd want to change mark's IC just for the hell of it lol - jim really has no idea haha, what a joke huh!

Why would you run a stock IC when making 350awkw+ which is a walk in the park with his setup? My 1st gtr had a 70mm making 365awkw and at the time I was advised to upgrade to keep temp down. I don't make things up nor am I computer warrior, I always talk of personal experience.

You need to remember, Jim (crd) is also a business man. the more he sells youand the more time he spends on your car, the more money he makes

Yeah so is Racepace and you end up paying big $$$ for standard parts... :whistling:

I thought this was about cams anyway?

OK to set the record straight the potential issue is not flow but maintaining power levels after extended use.

As for suggestions of overservicing, which I detest, there's no evidence of that in this case that I can confirm. Jim is not pushing this. Re the fuel pump, for what CRD would make out of it I doubt their next million is going to come from making $100 here and there on fitting pumps. The figures may well indicate that there was an issue. But seriously they've done everything I've asked and no more.

Always thought conventional wisdom was that a 32 cooler was good for 350 rwkw, the 33 and 34 a bit more. But then Ash has seen a lot more tracked GTRs than me so the wisdom I'm referring to may well be a crock.

Marko I'll be in touch re the cooler pending the feedback I get this week.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...