Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr 26/30 With Cams And -5S


Scooby
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm sure when I call Jim he'll have the answers, he hasn't failed me yet. Just single tank, we haven't talked power I've just left him alone what he gets is what he gets. Been itching to do -5s and custom cams from the start to satisfy my curiosity so we'll see how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Recently had an issue with a genuine walbro in a GTR failing at 300kw.

Direct wired the pump to a quality relay and suddenly had ample fuel (700cc injectors).

Give that a shot if your wirring is factory.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still think replacing the nismo for the 044 is a waste of time and money. direct wire the nismo with a relay and then test the flow (as explained earlier in the thread). no point just upgrading on a hunch and it's very debatable whether the 044 actually is an upgrade over the nismo anyway. In my experience a single nismo pump supports more power than single 044s do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 Beer Baron, from my little experience I have heard exactly the same. I know Trent from Status Tuning rates the Nismo intank fuel pump very highly. He said he has seen over 400rwkw numerous times on his dyno.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim says the torque is the thing that's sucking fuel and the current pump isn't up to it for an RB30 with my config. He can get it to 300awkw but that's it. He's got a test kit with a 044, hooked it up and reckons the difference is significant.

He's sending me a dyno graph with the current set up so I'll post it up when it arrives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There u go :)

When I built my rb30 and made 405awkw, ppl couldn't understand how I was hitting 70% injector duty cycle with bosch 1600cc injectors...its the torque that chews fuel!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is zero chance a working Nismo pump will be maxed with those turbos, let alone @ 300.

There have been 2.8lt strokers making 420-440rwkw with a single Nismo pump on 800cc injectors. So not just 2.6lt here. I realise a 30 is another 200cc more, but it's not a magical fuel eating beast. Extra - yes, but it's >10% capacity that isn't going to use 50% more fuel, thats just ridiculous.

And going off what you are saying RE: 1600/70% - if that's the case then Scoob's 600cc injectors will be maxed @ 300.

The only way to explain that is two ways

1. The pump was dying (rare & super ez to check)

Or

2. Wiring wasn't correct, and as part of 044 install, that was fixed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There u go :)

When I built my rb30 and made 405awkw, ppl couldn't understand how I was hitting 70% injector duty cycle with bosch 1600cc injectors...its the torque that chews fuel!

Or a tune with a bucket of fuel in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I knew there was some results of flow testing... Finally found it. Bit long winded but I think it's some pretty good info. (Gotta love a 12hr night shift for research purposes)

http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

Factory GTR pump flow: 230L/hr @ 72psi (13.5V)

So lets assume a Nismo pump is the same as stock GTR pump (its 25% more apparently, I have reason to think its the same, thats for another discussion)

Bosch Flow Rate PDF (63kb).

Bosch 044: 200L/hr @ 72psi (12V)

So clearly the Bosch if wired up @ 13.5V will flow more, and that overall the Bosch would be the better pump - I'm sure we can all agree on that.

However we are not talking about max flow rate :merli:

What are we talking about? Flowing enough fuel to supply 600cc injectors.

Now this has nothing to do with torque, just maxing the injector on a flow based level. So power output is irrelevant, size of motor etc.

To achieve this you need 3.6L/min as Rob82 said before.

Flow required: 216L/hr @ approx 60psi. (40psi base + 20psi boost to be generous)

So clearly both Nismo & Bosch flow rates are more than adequate for 600cc injectors that are @ 100% duty.

Even if you bumped the base pressure to 50psi + 20psi you still have enough room.

If the Nismo pump is not flowing enough, it is as i said earlier one of two things

1. Nismo is dying.

2. Nismo is not wired correctly.

Both are possible, both are very easy to check. Hope it adds a bit to the discussion.

I'd be asking for that Nismo pump and flow testing it if I were you Scooby :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing I don't understand...is it is dead easy to check the fuel pump is supplying enough fuel (fuel pressure guage, can even be inline to the fuel line on the dyno). If fuel pressure suddenly starts to drop especially at max torque, you are having a fuel pump flow issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

agreed. for the sake of $200 I permanently have a fuel pressure gauge in car. it's referenced to boost too (so stays steady at base pressure unless something is wrong) so it's very easy to spot lack of supply to the rail. cheapie mechanical ones can be had for about $60. and any workshop would have one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There u go :)

When I built my rb30 and made 405awkw, ppl couldn't understand how I was hitting 70% injector duty cycle with bosch 1600cc injectors...its the torque that chews fuel!

That's the dumbestest thing I've heard. Torque has nothing to do with fuel usage. The more power you make at the lower the rpm the more torque. You also have more allowable time to inject the fuel if your making high hp at low rpm (torque).

I've regularly make 360rwkw on an xr6t with 440cc injectors on pump fuel and they make more torque than most rb30's at this power level!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the dumbestest thing I've heard. Torque has nothing to do with fuel usage. The more power you make at the lower the rpm the more torque. You also have more allowable time to inject the fuel if your making high hp at low rpm (torque).

I've regularly make 360rwkw on an xr6t with 440cc injectors on pump fuel and they make more torque than most rb30's at this power level!

I don't take offence to your comment, however, I 'DO' listen to ppl in the know who have been building and tinkering with gtr's when u were probably riding a push bike...I am talking about the likes of CRD, RIPS racing and Red R Racing.

Why don't u pick up the phone and have a chat with these guys, rather than unleash as I am only the messenger :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't take offence to your comment, however, I 'DO' listen to ppl in the know who have been building and tinkering with gtr's when u were probably riding a push bike...I am talking about the likes of CRD, RIPS racing and Red R Racing.

Why don't u pick up the phone and have a chat with these guys, rather than unleash as I am only the messenger :)

You've obviously misunderstood them because what you have stated makes no sense.

Generally the higher the bore/stroke ratio the higher the bsfc - hence the better the conversion of fuel to hp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've obviously misunderstood them because what you have stated makes no sense.

Generally the higher the bore/stroke ratio the higher the bsfc - hence the better the conversion of fuel to hp.

So if you are making more torque and roughly the same power what is happening? (i.e. assume RB26 vs RB30)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.
    • Hi all, so I bought a very low kms 2019 Q60s in Nov 2022 and have been driving it stock for 17 months. The power from the VR30DETT has been a little scary as these cars did not come with a LSD. Although the ECU does well with compensating the lack of LSD by using automatic braking on different wheels when there is lost of traction etc, it does not really give me much confidence to push the car harder. Further to that, the car feels quite boaty especially around sharper corners or roundabouts - it would seem like the wheels are lifting on one side. These engines are also very prone to heat soak as the heat exchanger is tiny. I felt this during the heat wave in WA over summer even in normal driving. Gear shifting in the Q60 is also something that I hated - it's quite harsh at low speeds especially in traffic.  I recently purchased a set of f&r sway bars, rear diff brace and a heat exchanger from Z1 in US. Here are my thoughts 1) Rear diff brace - no more wheel hop when accelerating quickly. wheel spin still present but manageable comparing to before. Gear shifts are now smoother, you can still tell its shifting etc but you dont feel the harshness. I would highly recommend this mod, and it should still be on sale at Z1 at the moment. 2) Sway bar - there are 2 settings for this F - 114%/165% increase in stiffness over stock and R - 138%/214% increase in stiffness over stock. Currently I am on the stiffer settings. The car feels very planted. Due to the weather over here I have not been able to test if i need to reduce the stiffness. So far it's much more comfortable to drive over stock as you dont feel like your car is lifting up and in fast turns you can control the car a lot better while turning left and right in quick succession.  3) HX - the Z1 HX has a much higher capacity and surface area (up to 200% or something). Again with the cooler weather it's a little hard to tell. I went with the Z1 HX due to the price, size and colour (black). You can't see the HX through the front bumper. There is a cheaper brand but it was smaller and the rest were more expensive which i didnt think was worth the extra since I won't track this car much at all. All 3 mods were easy to install, all plug and play. Note of caution, the front bar needed to come off for the HX to be installed.  
    • A is the HICAS CU.  As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?   Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else. Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so  you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.
    • They didn't. This is their comments; I'm not sure why they don't have the OEM specs. 
×
×
  • Create New...