Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can never get my box into 1st gear >20kmh unless I force it, or I double clutch. At first I thought my box was rooted, but I find that almost any car with any decent ks on it behaves exactly the same!

ugh.gifugh.gifugh.gif

A good oil change with Castrol VMX 80 will help things.

Not as much as learning how to drive properly hsugh.gif

seriously people how dumb do you have to be not to realise that you shouldnt hardly ever gear down into first gear while approaching anything, whats wrong with keeping it in second gear ar 20kph, so you dont have the power of first for about 2 seconds, but who cares, trust me no oil is going to help you in this case, maybe a few more lessons on manual driving, or buy an auto.

Just put the lightweight shock proof redline oil in your hairy box and you can select any gear you like at any time of the day. Some of the best money you will spend on your baby. Order online at www.relineoil.com.au

You need this much for GTR, dunno about GTS

Gearbox -- 4.1 L

Transfer case -- 1.8 L

Rear diff -- 1.5 L

Front diff -- 1.0 L

thats funny you all say that, coz i get into 1st quite smoothly < 15km/h if I double clutch and rev match... it almost goes in itself.... (if u need to know why, think about coming to an uphill intersection, and just as you're about to stop, the lights go green)

I haven't really tried anything over that, coz like most ppl say, u dont really need to....

But as a general rule of thumb, if it struggles to get into first gear while moving, then dont!

Zahos: Well obviously, because that's what double de-clutching achieves, but all these people aren't doing that, and are just trying to force it into 1st gear.

Also, that scenario falls into the 0.05% of times when you'll need to put it into 1st gear whilst moving. 99.95% of the time, you should never have to put it into 1st gear whilst moving.

Guilty - don't feel stupid - chances are if your friends won't teach/tell you they probbaly don't know what it is..

Tip: Do a google search :)

Taken from:

http://www.triumphspitfire.com/healtoe.html

Double Clutching

First of all let's deal with the "double declutching " issue. This is really only the British term for 'double clutching' and makes reference in some way I suppose, to the fact that it is usually a downshifting maneuver in disengaging the clutch. The first stage in a full 'heel and toe' gear change is the simple use of double clutching. On its own this is a fairly simple little dance of the toes and it goes like this:

1. You are driving along in your TR, MG or whatever in third gear for example, approaching a corner and preparing to shift to second. You brake with the left edge of the ball of your right foot as usual.

2. Depressing the clutch with your left foot the shift lever passes through neutral as this happens you release the clutch pedal out again half way, thus setting the mechanics of the clutch assembly in motion again.

3. Then fully depress the clutch to complete your shift into second.

That my friends is a double declutching. It might sound odd in print but is quite simple in action. Practice it in the driveway, with the engine off so you don't hit anything. The aim is to keep the engine and the clutch plates turning at the same speed for the moment when they engage themselves. Your car will thank you especially if you have an older vehicle that lacks effective synchromesh.

I learnt to drive on my Dad's old 60's Alpha and the syncro on 2nd was so bad you have to double clutch in and out of that gear... with no power steering, peddles stupidly close together and an accelerator that only moves about two cm and its on the floor...

it was a tough learning machine... but fun and sounded great...

Skyline gearboxes won't let you select 1st while moving just like it won't let you select REVERSE... there idiot proof... (unless you are the kind of idiot who just forces it anyway)

thanks very much for the flames....

rather then stopping at busy roundabouts i usually try to keep a slight crawl on the car, otherwise i'll never get in when chance arises, so i hardly come to a complete stop..

ad i haven't been forcing it...has happened twice (crunches) so now i just leave it with slight pressure until i drops in itself, i may try the ouble clutch method - but this is not a everyday driving thing...just a few intersections up here that are always busy etc.

thanks very much for the flames....

rather then stopping at busy roundabouts i usually try to keep a slight crawl on the car, otherwise i'll never get in when chance arises, so i hardly come to a complete stop..

ad i haven't been forcing it...has happened twice (crunches) so now i just leave it  with slight pressure until i drops in itself, i may try the ouble clutch method - but this is not a everyday driving thing...just a few intersections up here that are always busy etc.

Okay, that's a valid time to be putting it back into 1st whilst moving...

Just make sure you're going *really* slow, like at a crawling pace, and double clutch it, and you should have no worries!

gatty, as everyone else is saying u shouldn't be shifting into 1st unless ur stopping. not sure what speed ur going at, but it usually helps to shift to 2nd and then wen ur nearly at a stop push it in first. most cars have this point where 1st will easily slide in going at a certain slow speed, eg. for me wen the car is just about to stop and its still rolling i find that it will just slide into first easily.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...