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This EFI mob sound like the go, and I am planning a drop off-pick up situation. Happy for the experts to do their thing.

I read that VVT won't work unless I get a 300zx ecu??

You have an R34 and your new ecu is R34? It should run the VCT fine.

there's also east coast customs and toshi

toshi is a little different though, he tunes it on the road, meaning you drive around while he sits in the passenger seat and tells you what to do for most of the day. he's tuned 150+ rb engines and many other engines. prior to him doing tuning he also used to do some spirited street driving in japan.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369646-toshi-will-coming-back-to-qld-in-30-th-november-this-monthfor-real-time-tune-on-road-r33-from-550/

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/210097-nistune-powerfc-fcon-remap-ecu-road-tune-and-dyno-tune-available-in-sydneysending-to-other-state-and-over-seas-also-abailable-now/

FOOLBOOST's dyno results:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__st__720

Some other stuff abotu the process:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=497151

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315820

anyway that's enough before it looks like i'm trying to sell for him haha

  • 1 month later...

alright then i was wondering if its possible to dual map R34GTT using whatever ECU. im just trying to figure out if its possible because it would be a great way to save fuel and the engine because it would allow me to run it at an economical tune for normal days and race mode for whenever i need perfomance. I dont mind the price any suggestions. maybe ill should start my own topic.

im no expert.... but.....

The Nistune does a 5D multi layered bi directional tune for economy and power.

Its all the in Air flow meter and your right foot. Boost doesn't use more fuel if its tuned nice and lean. Or left in closed loop at low boost levels.

Required power levels uses more fuel....... regardless of air fuel ratio.

So what I am saying is.... drive everywhere at 200 hp at 14.7:1 and you will use exactly twice as much fuel as driving everywhere at 100 hp at 14.7:1

Try driving everywhere using 15 - 30 hp all the time....... use your right foot to keep it off boost and you will be surprised how good your fuel economy becomes.

well its a GT3037 it start to kick in at 2000rpm and kicks out at 4500rpm its a street turbo. So if i could avoid the early boost on an average day it would be great on my economy.

Lol so it "kicks out" at 4500rpm?

dual maps for "economy" and "power" are completely pointless as the perfect tune will give you the best of both. the only reason to ever run dual maps if for different fuel types or additives (nos etc).

get a decent tune (not just a full load tune like a lot of workshops do) and try to maintain a steady throttle position when cruising and you'll get good economy.

HYPED6, pretty spot on, it wont be exactly twice as much fuel (due to BSFC) but its close enough.

Can you please elaborate for me?

at different revs and loads the engine has different efficiencies. its most efficient at peak torque, which is why it produces the most force per revolution. obviously this varies with every engine but even with the same engine if you keep it at a constant rpm and go from 100hp output to 200hp output with the same AFR's (by opening the throttle further) your increasing chamber pressure, squish characteristics and timing (depending on the ignition map) which will all have an effect on the efficiency of the combustion. so whilst it isnt much you'd probably use slightly more than double going from 100hp to 200hp at the same revs and AFR's.

But, in the big scheme of things it doesnt really matter :nyaanyaa:

We can produce both powers at the same rev by adjusting the throttle plate.

Timing would be correct for the application at both loads.

If the AFR is the same fuel usage will be double.

However, I do believe I was caught up in the moment and using the word "exactly" may not bet totally correct.

There are many factors that come in to play like the difference in barometric pressure, air and fuel temp from the 2 events being 100hp and 200hp.

If measurable there would have to be some sort of variation.

The real concern is why your turbo is kicking out? I would be upset if my 3037 was doing that

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