Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. If there is a restriction you'll see the turbo side making "X"psi, and near the T/B you'll see a drop.

Not uncommon to see a 1-1.5psi drop - anymore than that is certainly an issue.

Also test as close to turbo & T/B as possible so that way you take into account all the piping bends etc.

Just thought of another - Inlet temps.

2. Pre/Post cooler temp. You might find that it's not cooling the air enough - which is not neccesarily a restriction/cooler problem "as such". Often the better "cooling" cores are slightly restrictive (1-1.5psi as opposed to .5-1psi for higher flowing)

Are you logging inlet temps? That could be a reason you are being held back also.

If those two show up nothing, then it'll be somewhere else possibly.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you buy the Blitz intercooler specified for GTR it doesnt come with any piping AFAIK.

The blitz intercoolers seem to work pretty well.

End tanks are the same as OEM GTR cooler, meaning Russ'll have to re-do the piping.

do you actualy know if its the cooler core causing the problem?

you should take the cooler off. plumb in a pice of pipe and run it up on the dyno to see if anything changes. you could be chasing the wrong thing. wasting time and money trying to solve it.

Thanks for the input guys. I've been told by other tuners that the PWR cooler would be restrictive but I didn't really believe them till it held mine back. I'll let you know what I go with.

Mate, throw a few screwed bungs in your cooler pipes and measure the pressure drop. also, wouldnt nurt to have additional pair of screwed fittings that let you put hand held temp instrument with two probes to see temp drop.

I would be amazed if the cooler is the problem...even if its a cheapie with PWR sprayed on for cred, what makes you think its a restriction.

Mate, throw a few screwed bungs in your cooler pipes and measure the pressure drop. also, wouldnt nurt to have additional pair of screwed fittings that let you put hand held temp instrument with two probes to see temp drop.

I would be amazed if the cooler is the problem...even if its a cheapie with PWR sprayed on for cred, what makes you think its a restriction.

Chris said that it might be a limiting factor a while ago before the car was even running. It's the only thing not proven on other cars.

Mate, throw a few screwed bungs in your cooler pipes and measure the pressure drop. also, wouldnt nurt to have additional pair of screwed fittings that let you put hand held temp instrument with two probes to see temp drop.

I would be amazed if the cooler is the problem...even if its a cheapie with PWR sprayed on for cred, what makes you think its a restriction.

It's got the cast PWR end tanks so would be a good copy.

I'm been thinking hard but am struggling to think of a bolt in solution mate.

It's got the cast PWR end tanks so would be a good copy.

I'm been thinking hard but am struggling to think of a bolt in solution mate.

Nah it's genuine. I bought it new years ago. This is my 2nd one. 1st one got smashed on the wall at winton at a drift day lol.

Russ, I've got a greddy M spec if you want to test it. I'll measure it tomorrow, but I think it should fit. Its on my car, but as usual my car never gets driven so you're welcome to pull bits off it.

It was a fairly cheap kit so probably isn't the greatest core, I have no idea how well it flows but you could test it. If it works we can sort something out, at least until superlap.

Let me know if you want to try it.

The Greddy's have long tanks for a reason, they are needed to flow well. Your PWR endtanks are too short and high velocity air wont make it to the top of the core without a fight imo. Im running 310awkw on a 220mm cut down Greddy core.

post-63525-0-63710500-1311294684_thumb.jpg

Tank to tank = 700mm

End to end (including flanges) = 760mm

Its close. Might fit.

oh that does sound like it would fit... Only problem is that if I chuck in on and re-tune, I'll still have to find a long term solution.

I'll give you a call.

+1 for anyone who said hybrid. I had the same problem as you except we managed to top out the pwr cooler at 280kw. Swapped to hybrid and ran 313 in the first few runs and has since made a pb of 336kw. All that and its also lighter ;)

+1 for anyone who said hybrid. I had the same problem as you except we managed to top out the pwr cooler at 280kw. Swapped to hybrid and ran 313 in the first few runs and has since made a pb of 336kw. All that and its also lighter ;)

how would it go with heat soak? Lap after lap?

The cooler was definitely the restriction. I got the blitz kit and now we're making 280 on 19psi. We wound it up to 20.5 accidentally and it made over 300 so yeah. Happy that it's no longer held back.

thanks for help and comments guys.

The cooler was definitely the restriction. I got the blitz kit and now we're making 280 on 19psi. We wound it up to 20.5 accidentally and it made over 300 so yeah. Happy that it's no longer held back.

thanks for help and comments guys.

Interesting result.

I have a ne0 rb25 with a gt3076R .82 IW and just had a retune. It would not make any more power than 258kw on 17psi

They tried upto 19psi with no gain...2hp only

The tuner believes it is a restriction somewhere...they thought the exh manifold maybe.

I have a JJR (china) 600x300x75 cross flow core...hmmm maybe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...