Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We all know the 33 GTST lacks the tough stance like the GTR and looks a little anorexic, so Ive been thinking of putting some 400r type flared guards on my line to add a bit of width as Im getting a bonnet and front bar painted anyway.

I was wondering wether you guys could advise on wether I will need to get wider wheels with a better offset to fill the guard more??

Im currently running LMGT2 wheels 17 x 9 +38r on 255 40/17 and 17 x 8 +35f on 235 45/17 Street semi's so they are a little wider than a normal 255 becuase of the side walls (Azenis RT215). I know of a set of cheap LMGT2's for sale which I was thinking will get me the same offset front and rear I could maybe squeeze on a 265 tyre with the flares.

I'm not sure wether guard rolling will be an option as I think the fares are mounted on the bottom of the lip so it needs to be there AFAIK

The thing I dont want is that funny look like the old SLR toranas have with the flared guards an then these funny looking tyres 2 inches inside the guard which looks weird.

A few pics to show what the look Im after (Mainly the white one is the closest looking car to mine)

Thoughts?????????

post-31195-0-03183600-1311723327_thumb.jpg

post-31195-0-07670800-1311723352_thumb.jpg

post-31195-0-87547400-1311723367_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372190-33-gtst-flared-guards-400r-type/
Share on other sites

Yeah true, but they are kind of sedate and not too chunky from what I can gather.

They look as though they are almost flush at the bottom part and really only add width up the top if you get me?

Eve flares are o lot more chunky I think???

If I was to leave my 33 as is I'll keep the LMGT2 rims, the way they are now fills out the current guards well enough. Plus LMGT2's in white are not very common (only ever seen a few cars with them, heaps in grey though)

I'm more just wondering if I will have enough rim/offset/dish IF I decide to get the flares.

I haven't ever seen any on a car other than photos so it's hard to get a proper idea of how they look.

If doing the rear gaurds wasn't such a damn mission on a GTST wide body kits would be so much more popular. I would definetely do some GTR gaurds onto it. Personally I would love to see GTR gaurds on a S2 GTST but with the S2 headlights and front bar (obviously modified to suit).

Im tempted to buy some secondhand guards and attempt a guard widening job, 1" V strip of metal along the top of guard tapering towards the headlight area weld it in and make a bracket for bottom back of guard for wide body front guard...

if you use those 400r type addons will that actually allow room for more tyre (without rolling the lip or anything) or are they just to bolster up the wheel arch area...???

Yep I think you guys are right. The add on flares don't give you anymore usable width under the guard.

Maybe like 10-15mm tops as long as the car isn't too low (mine is lowered but not by much)

The other thing too AFAIK is that you cannot mount the fares on a rolled lip as that is where they mount.

It's really just an aesthetic thing to give a tougher/wider looking stance from what I can work out.

Seems to be very mixed opinions on them, you either love them or hate them. Personally I like them but would like to trial fit them or at least see them in the flesh before I make up my mind. The last thing I want is the old Torana look lol

Oh and phil the is an old hpi where a guy put gtr rear guards onto a s2 ( purple car IIRC ) and I think even the guy who owned it said he wouldn't do it again

Yeah I bet. Looks like such a huge mission.

There is a wide body GTST in Townsville. GTR front gaurds, custom bodykit, BA falcon headlights and custom rear gaurds with like vents down the side. Looks very good from a distance (havn't seen it up close though).

Here's the only photo of it I have found.

post-35676-0-64912800-1311900579_thumb.jpg

Hahahaha i'm just talking about the widebody kit on it. I don't like the front of it at all.

Turns out I found a thread about it/them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/97902-ford-xr-front-light-conversion-more-r33/page__p__1777813

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...