Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No, below 60% i run low boost, above that i press high boost.... Only picked up the car Monday so i am yet to try high boost.... Am up to E54 or something....

aahh

my boost is going to be controlled through the Haltech solenoid so its going to adjust it accordingly...

really interested to see when its all finished

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Would still very much like to see some MPHs out of these cars to see where it all sits, to date there isn't for any of them.

Thats because MPH readings are over in 13 seconds... Dragging the average uleh commodore isn't that appealing. Sprinting is where its at.

I'll do the 1/4 mile one day, but i actually have to get my car back together before i can do any event lol.

:yes:

However your approach to corners is a little different then most :P

Nothing wrong with that. As long as it has corners you can take at speed thats all that counts. :P Unlike events like power cruise :ph34r:

Thats because MPH readings are over in 13 seconds...

With "360rwkw" it should be well and truly over in 11 :)

But then you did say "at the hubs", so at least you get that it's not really "rwkw" :thumbsup:

With "360rwkw" it should be well and truly over in 11 :)

But then you did say "at the hubs", so at least you get that it's not really "rwkw" :thumbsup:

We like to use a hub dyno because nothing such as tyre pressure, tyre grip, wheels size, wheel width, tyre temperature etc etc can effect the outcome. Its always the same, no ifs or butts.

If you use Temperature correction then the results are as real as they come. YES there is a difference between power at the hubs and power at the wheels. Personally i dont care if its making less than XX kW @ the wheels.

Personally i want the most accurate figure possible so the tuner can do his job even better. The torque accuracy of the hub dyno is second to none. It calculates diff ratio and will give you the actual torque created at the flywheel by the engine.

MPH times really aren't an accurate way of proving or dis proving a car/engine setup. Far too many variables. Different drivers, different cars, different suspension setups, different tyres, reaction times the list goes on.

Just because a car makes a gazillion kW on a dyno doesn't make it the be all and end all. But on the flip side a car that only produces a 'low' power output doesn't make it a car that can't perform and put serious numbers down.

MPH never lies, the slight variables only ever have a 1-2mph effect at best as we are not talking tightly set-up 9 second cars where things like tyre size will actually make a difference to peak RPM(limiter avoiding) and so on. MPH has called the bluff many times over the years on here and will no doubt continue to do so for many years to come :)

Group dyno days also work in the same fashion (and the same excuses for not going come up) - It's always a laugh to see a car having a "bad" day when its 50rwkw down for "no apparent reason"... Or should I say, suddenly making realistic figures.

I've also seen @ some dyno days, the operator playing with the old temp correction trick for their own cars so they make more than anyone else's :)

Either way I wasn't having a go at you - you say it's @ the hubs and not "rwkw" like other claim - that is a damn good thing.

It sets realistic expectations for other users so they suddenly don't come along thinking you can make XXX"rwkw" from a set-up that simply put, will never make that.

Then we end up with threads here "Why am I down on power", "Is my tune shit" - list goes on. Other users face palm and then such threads end up a lot of time going nowhere.

With "360rwkw" it should be well and truly over in 11 :)

But then you did say "at the hubs", so at least you get that it's not really "rwkw" :thumbsup:

Mines rwkw :D

MPH never lies, the slight variables only ever have a 1-2mph effect at best as we are not talking tightly set-up 9 second cars where things like tyre size will actually make a difference to peak RPM(limiter avoiding) and so on. MPH has called the bluff many times over the years on here and will no doubt continue to do so for many years to come :)

Group dyno days also work in the same fashion (and the same excuses for not going come up) - It's always a laugh to see a car having a "bad" day when its 50rwkw down for "no apparent reason"... Or should I say, suddenly making realistic figures.

I've also seen @ some dyno days, the operator playing with the old temp correction trick for their own cars so they make more than anyone else's :)

Either way I wasn't having a go at you - you say it's @ the hubs and not "rwkw" like other claim - that is a damn good thing.

It sets realistic expectations for other users so they suddenly don't come along thinking you can make XXX"rwkw" from a set-up that simply put, will never make that.

Then we end up with threads here "Why am I down on power", "Is my tune shit" - list goes on. Other users face palm and then such threads end up a lot of time going nowhere.

you done?

I'll be done, when you are done claming rwkw** for hub results and misleading users.

(**as proven to be inaccurate to the tune of 40-60kw, by other users who've done back to back tests).

That's cause he sets it up right. He even have you pointers to do the same in a thread a lil while back :thumbsup:

Claims? Other users have proven it with evidence! That is not a claim.

For the love of god Ash, don't go onto the pommie site. Had one guy the other day '550-600 HP "at the fly" when he hadn't even stuck it on a dyno.

You will have a heart attack and die I'm sure of it.

That's cause he sets it up right. He even have you pointers to do the same in a thread a lil while back :thumbsup:

Claims? Other users have proven it with evidence! That is not a claim.

All my tunes have been done in the same set up mode, ramp rate and temp probe on as what Trentuses, sorry to burst your bubble.

One time it was tuned and made over 400kw however that was due to the temp probe not beingon thanks to the last user in the dyno taking it off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...