Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before some pretentious ass tells me to buy rims that fit with the right offest, they're sweet jap rims at a good price and unfortunately i don't earn enough to buy new.

Anyway I'm getting some rims for my skyline, want some pro fitment for it and they are;

Front 17x8 +40 215/40 would like them flush

Rear 17x9 +40 215/40 want them sitting out of the guards a bit

Cheers mate

Ive got +40 up front on my R33 GTST with 235 tyres and a 5mm spacer. They do NOT sit flush and there really is not more thread to hold onto.

I don't trust those bolt on spacers. Id get longer studs fitted and a proper spacer made to suit your car.

I can't stand running spacers. I hate it, I don't trust it but unfortunately I don't have the $ to get wheels to fit so I just left them on the car.

I know you said it in your first line but honestly man just wait for the right set of wheel to show up. You can get defected for running spacers and depending how big they are you aren't going to have much thread to grab onto.

Edited by SargeRX8

how far in do they sit? i'm getting bolt on spacers

Far enough in you can't see them at all when looking from the ass end of the car.

30mm spacer lol. I've got 5mm(pass brakes by 2mm) and I'm hating it. I get what, 5 turns onto the lug.

Far enough in you can't see them at all when looking from the ass end of the car.

30mm spacer lol. I've got 5mm(pass brakes by 2mm) and I'm hating it. I get what, 5 turns onto the lug.

The spacers he'd be looking at, would have studs in them and nuts to bolt them on to the cars hub. Spidertrax_whs_011.jpg

You don't want massive long studs with 30mm slip on style spacers; it's too much load on the studs, flexing them. 10-15mm slip ons would be about the maximum IMO. A bolt on spacer is a much better alternative; but only hubcentric ones.

Sarge; Not looking to insult or offend you; but 5 threads is nowhere near enough to hold a wheel on; you'll just pull the thread out of the nuts, and chuck a wheel.

As a fitter, I have always used 1.5 times the diameter of the thread as an acceptable amount of thread engagement. So on a M12 x 1.25 wheel stud; 18mm is optimum. At least aim for 12-15mm.

Please go to Repco and buy yourself some longer wheel studs before something terrible happens. It'll cost you $60 and an afternoon on the driveway.

25mm front 30mm rear bolt on spacers, you should be able to find a set of ford Pre AU to AU adapters on the cheap as theyre very common.

having said that, im running 19x10 in a +22, with an additional 35mm bolt on to get the look i want on the rear, with offset less is definitely more ;)

Before some pretentious ass tells me to buy rims that fit with the right offest, they're sweet jap rims at a good price and unfortunately i don't earn enough to buy new.

Anyway I'm getting some rims for my skyline, want some pro fitment for it and they are;

Front 17x8 +40 215/40 would like them flush

Rear 17x9 +40 215/40 want them sitting out of the guards a bit

Cheers mate

it will never happen dont bother.

Minimum tyre width for 9in is 235.

based on what ?

for the front to sit "close" to flush you'll need about 30mm spacers

dont encourage such stupid ideas billy!

bloke needs to save up and buy decent size wheels they are freakin honda spec rims.

Minimum tyre width for 9in is 235.

im running 225 on my 9 inch. and it looks fat.

and you only need 20 or 25 to sit fluch as ive got 25 and they sit abit past the guards, i have also just ordered 55mm :D

just make sure you roll the guards well so no scrubbage occurs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...