Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Basicly i'm looking at ways to boost my R34 GT-T, it was previously boosted with a manual bleed valve buuut since a very smart TMU officer managed to find it rather easy i had to get it taken off and EPA etc etc...

Im wondering, what is my next best option? Can you raise boost through a nistune chip? (i have a nistune installed) is there anyway to raise boost legally? or even go HIGH-FLOW but then dont i need a controller either way?

Thankyou for any help, im at wits end with this whole thing and i may sell in the end its just costing me too much money :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373065-r34-gt-t-boot-control-query/
Share on other sites

Not really, you still need the solenoid in the engine bay and they are generally bigger than a bleed valve.

You could just modify the actuator if you wanted. That also would work fine and then no valves at all etc.

Haha, Trent was the one who installed/tried to hide it.. we even painted it black..... officer still found it.

Is it easier to hide a EBC, like if i hide it in the Dash? what about the wiring in the engine bay?

Jeez that sucks, i taped mine in black electrical tape and tried to hide it somewhere last weekend, but i guess that won't work :/

Did you get done for anything else?

Why don't you just use the factory solenoid with a smaller pill and get your current boost controller to drive the solenoid. I would just change the wiring at the ecu.

And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Its a Turbosmart T manual controller btw.

WTF you run the boost hose via the interior of the car?????

If they are switched on its pretty much impossible to hide, they just have to trace the hose from the actuator. I tried fastening it to the underside of a pipe so you couldnt see it. Worked fine but I think the cop you had would have found it.

As said above get a stronger actuator.

And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Got any more info mate? I was looking at the base Neo maps the other night and there is an editable Boost Duty map.. I don't have the stock solenoid setup anymore but my mate does so was going to see what altering those duty values does, any advice from your previous efforts would be helpful, PM if needed :)

Got any more info mate? I was looking at the base Neo maps the other night and there is an editable Boost Duty map.. I don't have the stock solenoid setup anymore but my mate does so was going to see what altering those duty values does, any advice from your previous efforts would be helpful, PM if needed :)

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table).

Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill.

PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table).

Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill.

PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

Awesome! Cheers for that :)

The duty seems to be somewhat variable through the midrange so will probably start with increasing the duty in the top end, see how it goes, then look at shifting the transition more to the left (Neo was the same with the axii being rpm vs load).

First of all get an RB20 actuator - simple, cheap and stock looking. If that's not enough you could get a JayCar boost controller. It uses the stock boost solenoid (it would take a very switched on cop to notice the difference) and the only connections are to the ecu so you can put it in the glove box.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/61207-jaycar-boost-and-fuel-control/

rb20 actuator is good, but not the same as a boost controller...being a spring diaphragm, boost comes on too gradually...for me anyway, no boost "hit". If you really want to hide it, how about a dummy setup. leave stock boost solenoid in place, block inside the line with a vut bolt/plug, and tee lines off underneath that run to your boost controller. If someone really wants to find it they wil, but that would be a way to look stock

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...