Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thread title fail.

lol it was a topic title to draw attention and it worked :D

anyway, does anyone think that hard wiring the fuel pump will fix my 300rpm lumpy idle. and the miss on throttle application?? i was just going to do some basic patch wiring over the fuel pump relay into a second relay but i cant find one in the fuse/relay panel :/ am i going nuts??

Edited by lilcrash
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Except now you've lied to everyone else.

And I don't like being lied to. Especially about people lying.

Don't lie, you love being lied to, it's being lied on that you don't like!nyaanyaa.gif

yes theres alot of BS surrounding the fitment of walbro pumps. so many ppl say "they bolt straight in" on so many cars. they just forget to mention that the plugs need to be changed and you have to modify mounting brackets and hold the whole thing together with zip ties. after all the shit i want through with my commodore i'll never touch another walbro pump again. OEM branded pumps are a much better way to go.

There's nothing wrong with "real" Walbro's, the fakes gave them a bad name I guess, but that's the way every brand is these days. My twins are quiet and flow massive amounts of e85 right up to 80psi with little effort. For the price they cant be beaten and low current flow makes them easy on your wiring but they definitely need full 14v straight from the battery. Just wire the old power feed up to a 30amp relay that switches the 14v if you haven't already.

I used a hose clamp to hold them in place.

For the M35 guys Walbro's drop straight in to the stock fuel housing once the tabs on the top are trimmed off.

No, there is a fuel controller that gets a signal from the ecu.

The wire that went to the stock pump you use to energise a new relay that switches the 14v straight from the battery, (through a fuse of course). That way the car is still controlling the on and off of the pump just not dropping the voltage at idle which is your issue I think.

Could your fuelling issues be that the cradle didn't clip back correctly into the tank, and has now come loose?

I know I almost didn't clip mine back in properly when I fitted my Walbro pump (18 months ago and running just perfect still).

:thumbsup:

I think the biggest problem with stagea fuel pump upgrading is everyone goes into the job expecting a cradle like the skylines and it's not, it's a holder/box on the bottom of the tank.

I know i did, and I was like WTF when I opened the tank and there was no lift out cradle. it also took me a little while to figure out how to get the top of the holder to get to the fuel pump, didn't help that my tank was about a 3rd full.

Also to anyone that said walbro are too much of a stuff around to fit you obviously haven't trying to fit one to a S2 stagea before. If I laid a stock pump next to a GSS-342 you would hardley notice a difference. Inlet/outlet sizes are the same, electrics are the same, physical size is the same.

Steven, if you have a nistuned ecu that already has the Z32 afm swap done on it, and you swap your afm to the Z32 and use that ecu it should start and run. It wont be perfect but enough to know that it works. Nistune does a good job at resizing the values on afm swaps. When I did mine it was a little bit out, it was rich, I had to drop the kconst a little bit to get it running stoich. Unless you have a wideband to check it I wouldn't drive it around.

HA!!

you guys think YOU dont like being lied to....!

How about this then; Surgeon - "I'll remove your kneecaps & you'll be fine."

4 years later; loss of job/house/marriage & throw in same-old chronic disabling pain for the fun of it.

f**king KUNT of a surgeon. Pity I had no other option though, as the pain from bone on bone for 15yrs in both knees was pretty intense, so much so I just had to agree to removing the patellas & 'see what happens'.

IN or OUT its the same deal. Just now Im disabled in my movement, etc.

lol, rant over.

Anyways, I bought a Walbro 'da-27' 305LPH fuel pump, installed externally (GTR intank pump feeds 5L surgetank, walbro then feeds 550cc injectors).

From what I can tell its a bosch 044 copy and isnt walbro at all. Made by Driven2Automotive but marketed as Walbro.

Ive been lied to!

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

There's nothing wrong with "real" Walbro's, the fakes gave them a bad name I guess, but that's the way every brand is these days. My twins are quiet and flow massive amounts of e85 right up to 80psi with little effort. For the price they cant be beaten and low current flow makes them easy on your wiring but they definitely need full 14v straight from the battery. Just wire the old power feed up to a 30amp relay that switches the 14v if you haven't already.

I used a hose clamp to hold them in place.

For the M35 guys Walbro's drop straight in to the stock fuel housing once the tabs on the top are trimmed off.

this is exactly my point. the pumps work great. but theres nothing "bolt in" about them. having to wire up a new relay and custom mounting makes it difficult for ppl without the tools or experience. my advise to anyone with little experience is do not attempt it.

Here a how to with some pictures which may help:

http://www.skylineow...d.php?p=1492788

(As a matter of interest I think it was written by the guy who expressed an interest in bringing his (masa fronted) stagea to Aus)

Indeed it was me that wrote that guide.

Fitting was exactly as per the guide, my Stagea is a Series 2 RS4V and I did also do the earth mod and run another better supply via relay too. I think that any uprated pump would require better wiring, the standard wire gauge in the car isn't exactly generous.

Oh and I'm still waiting for the job. The recruitment is on hold at the moment, but rest assured if I get the chance to transfer I'll be coming to annoy some of you guys in person ;)

Edited by DeanR33

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

Does she have a sister? :worship:

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

I think you're very lucky to have such a wife! Apart from the practical advantages its great to have a partner who shares an interest in car engineering :) :) :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...