Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

Just a quick question for people who have a weekend car.

Do you keep the fuel tank full & put fuel additives later on, or do you keep the tank mostly empty with just enough to get to the servo when you want to drive it?

just bought a cheap daily driver so my car will really only be driven on the weekends, so a full tank of fuel would probably last 1-2months before re-fill

pic of my new daily, decided to keep it in the nissan family, actually a fun little thing to punt around :D

2011-08-07160139.jpg

I decided to name it Panda because of the colour scheme, I'll probably spray the wheels black when I have a lazy weekend

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373287-who-has-a-weekend-car/
Share on other sites

I try to keep my tank mostly empty with enough to get to the servo before I drive it. I would add octane booster and whatnot if I was too worried about how long it's been sitting there. It's not hard to empty the tank on the GTR :D

I have a little NX coupe as my daily. It's white too, I like how it's my little mini car! It's fairly zippy for what it is.

If it's every weekend then not a big deal. Mine is lucky to be driven once every month or two so keep the tank full. All car storage advice says to keep it full as the tank can rust if sitting empty for long periods and condensation will also build diluting the fuel. Keeping it full prevents both.

Try keeping it full, plus I have a built in battery charger that runs off mains to maintain battery life.

My daily kinda doubles as my towing car so sometimes my GTR doesn't even get driven on the road so I can keep the tune fairly non-ozone friendly as well :)

All the more reason to ensure that the fuel remains as untainted as possible while it's payed up in the garage.

its not good to keep ur tank lower than half coz it can dry up ur fuel pump can damage ur pump insides. kept it full incase you have no cash lol

i also have a weekend car, r32 gtr.

my everyday car is r31 ti turbo. i love it, it has 4 doors for space, big boot space for baby's pram and stuff, towbar for towing, good on fuel, power to smoke most standard cars ;) including evos lol (full sleeper), full pwr option including cruise for the freeway and easy to drive so my wife can drive it coz we share the car.

Edited by petersr34

cheers for the advice everyone, so looks like I'll just keep it at 3/4 full & add octane booster if needed

also a drip charger sounds good to keep the battery fresh

cheers

looks like I've kind of started another 'post your daily driver thread' :thumbsup:

My car never goes more than 2 weeks without getting driven. Too long without a GTR makes for a cranky Kat!!

I also have a battery charger, when i know it's going to be more than just a few days I hook up the C-Tek to the battery and it's awesome. Although before I had it and had to get jump started it would give the NRMA guys a bit of a shock when they realise its my car!

I have a daily and a once a year car.

It came out last in January 2010... I hope to bring it out again by December 2011...

As for fuel... I don't even know if it'd still ignite TBH...

how can u leave it that long! i couldnt look at it more than 20 mins without finding a reason to drive it!

it stays at my inlaws and i only see it on the weekends.

I put fuel in my Skyline when ever I need to put fuel into it.

Last time I put fuel in it was 3 or 4 weeks ago in Goulburn. I'll probably fill it up next time I drive it as it probably only has 50km worht of fuel left :laugh:

My daily's a '98 Civic hatch...hilarious to drive and not too bad on fuel, plus its manual so its fun. I don't reckon fuel would go off in a week would it? More likely in a month or so

how can u leave it that long! i couldnt look at it more than 20 mins without finding a reason to drive it!

it stays at my inlaws and i only see it on the weekends.

Cause this car uses more big end bearings then fuel...

I'd be using the V36 as a daily..

So would I :happy:

I train it into the city for work & parked my car at the station, someone already put a dent on the passenger side door & some dropkick pinched my tire caps, seriously who the hell pinches tyre caps?!

at least now with the pulsar it won't matter as much if things like that happen :laugh:

Incidentally I also watch people park at the station while I'm waiting on the platform, fkn hell people in general can't park...

saw one person literally take around 7 minutes attempting to park front first then give up & take another 3 minutes trying to reverse out of the lane as it is a dead end on the other side, almost scraping the adjacent cars as they went along. No way I'm parking my car in the same lot as those muppets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...