Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

RB25DET motor...

If you had $2000-$2500 to spend on Pistons and Rods.. What would you get?

Ive had a look around and asked alot of performance shops.. Ive got an idea of what I want. Ive heard everything from CP, Spool, JE/Nitto, Eagle, Manley, Mahle to ACL..

In your opinion what would be the best combo for the money.

Set up I currently have, is tomei forged rods/pistons, tomei cams/cam gears.. and i've melted/cracked a piston on 1.7bar at 8200rpm. Want to buy rods and pistons.

Thanks,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374381-pistonrod-combo-on-a-budget/
Share on other sites

2.5k will get you plenty of decent stuff outta the US at the moment.

There are plenty of Rod/Piston Combo's to be had from ebay retailers.

Just make sure they have an actual website/business as well, not just the 'backyarder' style ebay seller.

Although if you cracked/melted a piston mate, that wasn't a fault of the mechanicals...

Although if you cracked/melted a piston mate, that wasn't a fault of the mechanicals...

Yep, understand this. Perfectly. But, it needs to be fixed. Thought about going a 2.8 stroker... but for now just want to get new rods and pistons in the thing, get it running and keep the mrs happy lol.

Can you recommend any parts? people in the states? links maybe?

Because of so many different choices its made it harder to choose.. if that makes sence? is anything brand/part better than the other?

Car did make 510rwhp. before deciding to empty the sump though the catch can breather and blow smoke like ive never seen lol.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Matt

I'd work out why a forged piston melted before deciding which one you want to melt next

510hp is nothing, 1.7 bar is nothing and 8200rpm is nothing

The answer to your question is not which one is going to be best, it's which one you can get the easiest and cheapest. They are all equal and no matter what anyone tells you, they are all going to be perfectly fine in your application. It's not until you start making over 1000 hp that piston choice really matters

for my money given current forex rates i would go with:

tomei rods (had between $1000-$1200 at the moment and very nice)

as the guys said there is lots of good piston options out there. so piston choice is a bit more open.

CP pistons are a fine choice.

or maybe some mahle short skirt pistons if you are that way inclined.

there's other good options too for reasonable money, just do a bit of research on what people are currently using in RBs.

Full rebuild kit for $2090.

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb20det-rebuild-kit

spool rods

cp pistons

cometic gasket

bearings

bla bla bla

RB20DET rebuild kit?

I posted a link to the 25 kit about 4 posts ago............

Thanks everyone for your input.. its been helpful :)

Ive ordered a set of Manley H-beam rods with ARP2000 rod bolts, .020 over CP pistons (almost got Weisco pistons but figured CP would be the way to go after more reseaching).

Also ordered ARP headstuds.

Now looking into barings. Probably use ACL Race series or maybe Tomei.. havent really decided yet

As for the headgasket im looking at either a Tomei or a Cometic.

Anymore opinions on barings and gaskets??

Will rip the motor out and start stripping it down this weekend, will send the block off to be acid dipped, bored, honed and get all the machine work done.

Hopefully get it back next weekend and start bolting it all back together.

Heres hoping the crank is ok, or i'll get a new crank rather than have it machined and fit oversized barings, i dont like that idea.

Figure while its out i'll fit a Ross Harmonic metal jacket balancer.

Thats about all I can think of for now..

Cheers,

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...