Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Igor, what needs to be looked at?

I service mine myself, but it's a bit easier for me since I have access to a hoist and my dad's a mechanic, can give me a hand with tricky stuff.

I think Mike was getting his looked after by Morpowa.

It's a bit of everything really... Got some knocking in front left part of suspension after getting swaybar in, got high RPM idle after plenum spacer, gearbox is a bit rough, so needs a service... Also to see if anything else in terms of suspension might need attention before BC's go in... And just get an overall professional opinion, sort of. Just to know that it will not fail on me suddenly...

the knock is probably something mis-aligned, or the bushes need greasing up a little more.

the ECU reset procedure needs to be done after the plenum spacer

the trans probably needs new fluid, or a top up!

youll probably need to do the radius rod/castor arm bushes as they are pretty much all flogged out http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=240

the knock is probably something mis-aligned, or the bushes need greasing up a little more.

the ECU reset procedure needs to be done after the plenum spacer

the trans probably needs new fluid, or a top up!

youll probably need to do the radius rod/castor arm bushes as they are pretty much all flogged out http://www.m35stagea....php?f=27&t=240

I didn't have to do this. I would also be looking at vacuum leaks being the cause of this.

It's a bit of everything really... Got some knocking in front left part of suspension after getting swaybar in, got high RPM idle after plenum spacer, gearbox is a bit rough, so needs a service... Also to see if anything else in terms of suspension might need attention before BC's go in... And just get an overall professional opinion, sort of. Just to know that it will not fail on me suddenly...

Grab an allen key & remove both the gold locking rings from around the swaybar (takes a few minutes). Check on the top side for marks where it's rubbing. Get a file & remove the corners, & take a little off the top if you want (another 5 - 10 minutes) & replace.

You could just loosen & rotate so the flat is exactly in the right place & you'll be fine for a few kms, but it will come back. Mine was right for a while till I went around a long series of corners & then it sounded like my suspension was going to fall out, lol.

My 100,000km service was done by Boostworx, and included machining brake disks. Seemed pretty good.

Sinergy diagnosed my coilpack problem and fixed it while I was out of the country. No complaints there either.

Tried relearning few times... It goes through Ok, but next time I start the car it goes back to where it was before... I though there might be some way where you can force the correct setting of the ECU with Consult or special equipment and software...

I know the guys at wheelworx have serviced the stagea i bought they seem nice guys, will let ya know how it goes need to go to them soon.. but may change to the one Brad uses its close to me and if we all use the same guy/guys they should get their shet together as far as m35 knowledge is concerned.

Boyz at turbo tune did my FMIC ,nistune fit,apexi elc boost in center con,fuel pump etc and tune and happy as! Know what they are doing for sure!

Sinergy have always do good work .. Sell and work on lots of c34 and m35 etc,

The boss drives m35.. Try them?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...