Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Alex,

It's a 1953 XK120 DHC. We are converting it to RHD. I believe ya mate because I too know very well there is alot of fixing. Especially due to the price range my dad buys them at :) They are such a rewarding car though that they are a pleasure to work on. Removing all the paint off the alloy bonnet and doors was just awesome. Removing the siezed door hinges and repairing was an absolute pain but a joy now that it's done. I could go on for hours on the things we have done so far just on one car. What car's did/does your dad have ?

Grew up with Rovers- P6B mainly, went through about 3 or 4 of them, then onto the honda rovers - quintet, 416, 827, and still has a 75. There was a daimler sovereign (like the 420 compact), a Mark1 Jag, nut and bolt (over 20 years...lol) resto on a MG A, MG Magnette was a bit before my memory, and finally he still has the early MGB GT, that his father bought new in England in good original condition.

He has a NA MX5 these days for the topless fun, all the joy of the MGA, without the pain.

+2 for liking the Chaser. Saw a JZX110 in Dandenong late Wednesday. Did like. Would consider buying if I didn't need/want a wagon.

Same; the boot was just too shallow for me; otherwise I'd be hitting some 1JZ action. The late model vvti single turbo 1JZ's are a much nicer thing to play with.

I still don't think the interiors are quite up to the standard of the Nissan though.

not really, i chipped my current car and its more economical and has more power............ :P

Gotta love the VAG cars for that. What chip did you get / who did it for you Iain, & what gains did they advertise for your car?

I bought the missus a A3 Tdi (125kw / 350Nm std) which I'm trying to convince her to let me upgrade the 'economy'. Most I've looked at don't get a lot more power, but some (supposedly) have as much as 77Nm gain - & that's significant considering how little effort it is to get it done.

not really, i chipped my current car and its more economical and has more power............ :P

+1 Iain; What did you end up using, and what is the end result?

Did you do any supporting mods?

Details man, DETAILS!!!

i got a 2nd hand superchips bluefin for $550. they offer a stage 1 (no supporting mods required) which does 54NMs more and 41HP. stage two can offer half again as much, but need fuel pump, dump pipe and intake. took 3 mins to reflash via a hand controller. ive done no other performance mods to the car. only HID conversion ($2.5k for HID pffft) and a fully integrated ipod interface to the satnav system.

leon, your wifes A3 if its more than 3 years old can do a remap via the consult, however all the new diesels (like andys) need to have the ECU removed and perform a bench flash.

i get boost from about 1500rpm and it wheel spins in the dry around 3k into 2nd gear. wet weather, forget about it. however this is a FWD car :( but it handles VERY well for an ass dragger. the sydney people will see it next weekend if they come to the meet

Edited by zei20l

That's a good price Iain. My preference so far is for Bluefin, but pretty pricey here in Aus. I don't know if I can buy it online from UK (running a special there atm) or if they'll insist I get it here.

And yeah, it's more than 3 yrs old so ridiculously easy way to gain some more grunt, umm, I mean better fuel economy, lol.

then you shouldnt have a problem with a reflash!

i got mine from www.vwwatercooled.org.au there is a good FS section there. i think the diesel engines have a good support forum too.

hahah sometimes economy=power. i can consistently get 10L/100km to and from work. highway, 6.5L/100km

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...