Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What he said.

If you find the limits of your car out there, my only question to you is; why aren't you driving for a professional racing team surrounded by easy women and earning bulk coin?

  • Replies 412
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I would put good money you will find your limits before you find the cars. Especially being your first time on the track. Youre not out there to break records but to have fun safely and enjoy your car

^spot on

I never said I was the greatest racer alive. If I was I wouldnt need brake upgrades etc.

so does that mean you'll be out there?

there are plenty of guys out on the track in GTS-t's that don't run mega large brakes. and they do fine. and i doubt you'll be hitting 200km/hr down the back straight and need to pull up in less than 100m for the hairpin on you're first outing.

the GTR isnt a 2 tonne + landcruiser or a XR6 boat. you will be able to stop with the std brakes. just make sure you get track spec pads and good fluid.

if anyone is interested we have a lap timer and also some slotted front rotors and HC+ track pads for R32GTR in our sale section (also rear slottd rotors and full set of braided brake lines for S14/S15).

http://www.isc-coilovers.com/discounteditems.html

i might be able to come for a looksie, but id have a good guess and say the GTR wont be back together in time, and if i have the Mini going by then it wont be in any fit state to be thrashed around mallala :laugh:

Hey guys

My car came with kuhmo ecsta711 fronts and 60% Federal 595SS at the rears ( >_< prev owner ) ..265/35/18's

Will I be ok with these to run them out then get new tyres or shall I get new tyres now?

Cheers,

If you are looking for a bit more performance out of your tyres, id say go for the Federal 595 RS-R motorsport tyre

ss595rs.jpg

Tyrepower Blackwood will do these at members prices for you too!

If its your first day out there I'd say leave them on. They might not be great,but it will take a few sessions to get up to speed. If you can steer, have been before and take it semi seriously then look at a more performance based tyre

Yah its my 2nd track day but first time with this car

Ive been doing some forum readings...but there are so many types

Pirelli Pzero was good in my old evo

Potenza RE-11 (replacemen of RE-001???) and RE-01R not made?

Fed 595RSR and

Toyo T1R which I had in my old GTR

Your suggestion is valued

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...