Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I want to go multi-gauge display. So far, my option could be:

Greddy Informeter touch

Blitz Brain: look and feel the same like greddy but sensor are more expensive than the greddy so i rather go greddy

Ark design MFD: Cheaper than the 2 other, display less but look nice... Do I really need all the info the greddy gave?

Nistune : Nice but getting a carputer is big pain in the...

HKS CAMP: Nice but you need a monitor, i could use my 2 din radio but I heard that if you switch from Ipod to av-input, your loosing your music so its not multi-tasking..

So. really right now is between greddy informeter touch and ark-design mfd.

but maybe you know better, maybe I forget something. please let me know!

I've been through this too. You have basically covered all the options mate.

Personally I like the arc one the best(price wise) if I was going to fork out 600 bux I would go with the nismo dash cluster.

There's also the blitz icolor. Doesn't look as pretty as the others.

Iphone or pad running wireless bluetooth consult can do multiple gauges at once.

many apps for nissans and other cars

since Iphones and pads also have Gmeters built in you can get data from track days as well ?

older iphones will be popping up soon, iphone 5s coming soon

I've got a Greddy Informeter Touch, got it for around $400 online.

Does everything I want, I just need to get the oil pressure and oil temp senders for it.

I'd recommend it if you're looking for a multi gauge display, but I have no experience with the others.

I've got the Ark. Does what I want, I mostly use it to keep an eye on water temps while I'm tuning.

Pros:

looks good

Works well

Easy to use

Has peak recall and warning functions.

Cons:

Small size makes it hard to see while driving.

Need to hack the ECU wiring loom to install.

Really all the things you listed are going to do the exact same thing, so just pick one you like the look of. If you're not too electrically savvy then I wouldn't recommend getting the Ark.

Really all the things you listed are going to do the exact same thing, so just pick one you like the look of. If you're not too electrically savvy then I wouldn't recommend getting the Ark.

good point. Informeter is plug and play into the odb port. Too easy! :thumbsup:

+1 for Informeter.:thumbsup:

All your factory sensors output to the display, and you can add on temp & pressure senders for additional on screen info.

The screen can be configured in a number of different ways, you can set audible alarms and you can even record data if you wish.

Plus; you don't have to have a gaudy bunch of dials all over the place.:whistling:

Well it uses the factory sensors, and any others require a separate Greddy sensor harness and sensors. I have no idea if you could use the Greddy sensor harness with third party sensors unfortunately, and can't really try it as I don't have any to test.

Hopefully that gives you some extra info? Not sure if you can find a retailer who can help you with that question?

I believe you won't be able to use the factory sensor. Different voltages, the gauge mite interperet the infoation incorrectly. That's why they offer their own sensors

Mine plugs into the ODB connector on my M35 Stagea and picks up all factory sensors (except maybe boost - but my factory boost sensor needs repairing). Only reason I have to run external sensors is so I can get oil temp and oil pressure, which I don't have stock sensors for.

Mine displays pretty much everything else, including but not limited to gear, revs, speed, ignition timing, AFM voltage, water temp, injector %, fuel consumption, etc.

You can also do more with it if you set it up, I just haven't spent long enough dialing it in.

Well the obd port is more advanced than taking a signal from a sender. Senders convert pressure or temperature to a voltage, depending on the sensor it will be a different voltage. This voltage is the signal used by the gauge aka decoder to display the pressure or temperature. Some senders may work on a voltage drop of 0-1v some mite work on 0.5 -1.2 volts. All different.

Whereas the obd port carries the decoded signal already which makes much less complex and less variation, which makes it easier to make universal gauges because the criteria is smaller and the manufacturer can make a signal range equivalent to what obd ports display.

Quite complex and you have to take into account the variables on what voltage signal is produced by the sensor

Yes, it's called the Consult port and I think it works a little differently to the standard OBD systems.

In the Stagea I have a CarPC and run Datascan on a daily basis.

In the Skyline I have nothing at the moment so I am looking at an ECUTalk Box.

Although, I have been intrigued by some of the new tablet PC's but unless they have an onboard USB port (can't find one that does yet :( ) they are useless.

no they don't. they don't have OBD. they have consult instead which is a old nissan proprietary type of OBD and not compatible with any OBD devices.

no they don't. they don't have OBD. they have consult instead which is a old nissan proprietary type of OBD and not compatible with any OBD devices.

Back to ZD then....

Yes, it's called the Consult port and I think it works a little differently to the standard OBD systems.

In the Stagea I have a CarPC and run Datascan on a daily basis.

In the Skyline I have nothing at the moment so I am looking at an ECUTalk Box.

Although, I have been intrigued by some of the new tablet PC's but unless they have an onboard USB port (can't find one that does yet :( ) they are useless.

Got one of those for my skyline - Brilliant and best value IMHO.

Reminds me of the LCD on the stack branded guages.

There is no graphics or anything like that - Just plain text - Which is fine for me, but some people out there want pretty graphics and animations.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...