Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ports got a bit of a clean up, removing steps in the radius etc, and that was about it. I didn't remove the 'humps' in the exhaust ports, just my choice :D .

post-12712-0-48726300-1331079541_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-30974300-1331079544_thumb.jpg

Just to prove I ain't ripping off web pics, my ugly mug lol. Putting grubscrews into crank, loctited in to be sure.

post-12712-0-14832400-1331079546_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-38020400-1331079548_thumb.jpg

Crank getting fitted and measured up for bearing clearances 0.0015"-0.002" from memory, thrust 0.011". Girdle torqued up, and you can just see the 3 long studs that have been shortened to clear sump and driveshaft tube. 55FT-LB.

post-12712-0-60155000-1331079550_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-00810800-1331079553_thumb.jpg

Pistons and rods getting some attention. Piston rings clocked as per service manual.

post-12712-0-46781400-1331079555_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-06087900-1331079558_thumb.jpg

Fitting the piston and rod into the bore. Rod bolts, I tightened them using a bolt stretch gauge on the 3rd cycle. 0.0055" stretch.

post-12712-0-58449600-1331079560_thumb.jpg

Today piston to deck height will be measured and if all good it'll all be put together permanently.

Hey Sean,

Looking good , let me know what the deack height is and what head gasket you using ( i have a nismo 0.9mm gasket if interested). Why i ask is john has Set my motor to have 33thou squish, try and aim for that if you can.

Hi Bob,

Block had about 0.006" taken off the deck, I was told.

Deck height of pistons' quench measured up 0.016-0.017'' proud of the deck, 0.003-0.004" on the other side squish.

He is using a cosworth 1.1mm (0.0455") head gasket.

So squish will be 0.0285". So over 0.5mm, it should be enough clearance when engine is running in the higher RPM ranges.

I aim to have the cylinder head on and torqued up tomorrow.

Hi Bob,

Block had about 0.006" taken off the deck, I was told.

Deck height of pistons' quench measured up 0.016-0.017'' proud of the deck, 0.003-0.004" on the other side squish.

He is using a cosworth 1.1mm (0.0455") head gasket.

So squish will be 0.0285". So over 0.5mm, it should be enough clearance when engine is running in the higher RPM ranges.

I aim to have the cylinder head on and torqued up tomorrow.

Hey Sean,

That is a tight squish i think its way to tight lower limit is 33 thou any lower then this may be a problem. I would do a dummy build to check this measurement to make sure.

And can you confirm the piston flat surface ( Piston squish area ) extends out of the block at 0.016 - 0.017" ?

Just a note on tight squish, the car will have problems idling and if it does idle it will be rough

These were measurements I took yesterday with the pistons at TDC, bottom end dummy assembled.

0.0045" under your 33 thou. He'll love the idle more then haha, barp barrrp barp....along with the cams.

I'll dummy fit head and double check gap with clay.

So I fitted head and measured the clay after lunch. Squish measured up at 0.038" with the head torqued down.

After dummy fitting the cylinder head, it was removed, head gasket was hylomared, then head was fitted and torqued in steps to 110 FTLBs.

Then cam caps were fitted and torqued to 10FTLBs. Timing accessories were then fitted and a dial gauge used to check piston Top Dead Center etc.

Cam gears set to 0, 0 degrees, as HKS cams are being used, and they can be fiddled with on the dyno at a later stage.

post-12712-0-99574400-1331219660_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-54030900-1331219663_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-57392000-1331219665_thumb.jpg

Block painted in heatproof matt black to see leaks easily ;)

post-12712-0-19418800-1331219668_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-51088400-1331219670_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-00993600-1331219673_thumb.jpg

Timing done! Nice colour.

post-12712-0-58844600-1331219675_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-71269600-1331219677_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-99183400-1331219679_thumb.jpg

Harmonic balancer still needs to be torqued up. Might make up a tool to hold the balancer at the front as I'm torquing up the crank bolt, instead of twisting the crank if I held it at the back of the crank....

bore: 86.5mm

stroke: 73.7mm

head gasket thickness: 1.1mm

deck height: around -0.013in (one side of piston was .003", the other side was .016")

piston dome: -16.2cc

combustion chamber: 64.5cc

Hey Paul,

I calculated static CR at around 9.2:1, keeping in mind this engine is using non standard cams, so upping the comp a bit will help with off boost drivability and regain a little efficiency back at low to mid RPM due to the longer duration cams (264deg 8.8mm lift).

great now i'm going to have to put the 4.11 back just to keep up again........

but seriously looks good, keen to hear and see it go......hard! will have to go cruising when i get back buddy.

Bloody Oath... but mind you you have the torque :closedeyes:

Feels like ages without my car lol

Blah blah.......back on topic!! put the engine in today and fitted up the gearbox. Sucks doing it all by yourself..

This was after spending the morning sorting out all the minor crap before the engine could go in...

Pics will be up tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...