Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all :)

I wont go into too much detail, as its a boring story, but unfortunately I have a crack in my R34 GTT NEO head that cant be repaired. My issue is this, I simply cannot get hold of a replacement anywhere in the UK. So this has got me thinking about the standard RB25DET head, will it fit and work? I know that the neo has VVT and therefore revs higher than the standard head and that the cas wiring is different. But other than that will it work?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379447-r34-cylinder-head-cracked/
Share on other sites

Um......not a great idea. The Neo combustion chambers are a different size and the pistons are different as a result. Put an older 25 head on it and the compression should go through the floor.

this. bad idea

I have had the block bored to 87mm and now have Tomei forged pistons and Eagle rods, the pistons have been machined to account for the valve pockets and the compression is good. I am just curious to hear if anyone has done such a thing with the head, as I am a bit stuck. I suppose I could get the head tig welded and run it for a while until a neo head comes available.

As I say, I am a bit stuffed at the moment as I need to come up with a workable solution to my problem of not being able to get a NEO head and as the garage is charging me per day (as whilst my car is in they are loosing money due to my car taking up space)

I guess I could put a R33 GTST head on, swap the internals (other than the lifters) and change the wiring on the cas. But I am just lost and have no idea what to do :(

As above, just tow the car home and buy a neo head or full engine from one of Australia's many wreckers or even off SAU. Plenty of friendly helpful folk on here (who also sometimes happen to have lots of spares haha).

If you can't get any help, i've seen many a people on here offer someone a bit of money to do some shopping/running around and packing/posting. A head shouldn't be hard to ship to the UK.

That's a bit BS about charging you per day because your car is taking up space... must be a really small workshop or something. My car is also at a workshop at the moment, with two engines sitting on their floor and a gearbox plus misc bits. I'm waiting for parts to be made/delivered and they're not charging me any holding fee etc. Not that i did it on purpose though, they pulled the dead motor out then said you need blah blah blah before we feel comfortable putting new motor in.

GL

Where is the crack? Got a picture of it?

I've only ever seen one rb head crack and he was running methanol and 60 pound boost

this

very rare for an RB head to actually crack under normal conditions. are you absolutly sure it is not repairable?

Shipping a head to the UK isn't unfeasible, it won't be that cheap, but it won't be ridiculously expensive either.

If you organise the freight I'm sure a seller wouldn't have an issue shipping it, the issue is finding a neo head, they get snapped up in seconds even here and in Japan where they are readily available.

I would suggest contacting Jesse Streeter and getting one direct from japan, probably your best bet, get the car towed home until you can find one. Also take pictures of the head for us. How did you crack it, run the engine without coolant or something?

Edited by Rolls

I will get some photos as soon as I can, the car will be coming back home this week and with any luck you may look at it and say thats its ok to be tig welded. Unfortunately I dont know how it cracked, plenty of coolant in there. Fingers crossed all will be well.

I will get some photos as soon as I can, the car will be coming back home this week and with any luck you may look at it and say thats its ok to be tig welded. Unfortunately I dont know how it cracked, plenty of coolant in there. Fingers crossed all will be well.

Who told you it can't be fixed? First off take it to a cylinder head shop for a look. If it is a fine crack you can get the head x-rayed. There are specialist welders who can repair most anything these days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...