The 'someone Help Me' Thread

[Matty Sherlock]

Okay so people might think this topic is a bad idea, but I think if it has some rules and people follow them it could prove very helpful to everyone..

We have all came across sudden issues, both big or small, with our cars. Sometimes you can fix them yourself in a matter of minutes, sometimes you spend thousands of dollars and die a little inside..

Realistically, we all rely on someone else's experience/knowledge/tools, etc. when something is out of our hands in terms of capability to fix these problems.

If you are stuck in this situation and you are desperately seeking help with information or advice, or even just need someone to help you carry out high priority repairs to your vehicle, post up as much detailed information and pics of your problem in this topic and surely someone from the SAU:SA community can assist you in some way/shape/form.

As for the do's and don'ts of this topic.

• Use the search function.. it is highly probable that someone else has come into a similar situation to yours and evidently, SAU is arguably the best source of info regarding Skylines on the internet
• Do another search on any search engine e.g Google, Yahoo, Car-Touble

Still nothing?

• Do not post up a problem unless it is of great concern to you and immediate repair is required! (Not "Oh can someone help me change my oil filter, I don't know how to and my service is due in 500 kays")
• Give as much information and pics as you can, so that others can quickly help you
• Seek professional advice and weigh up your options regarding time/money etc.
• If you can help someone, contact them VIA PM or personally where possible
• Avoid lengthy discussion about silly things that we can read about in other topics
• Keep the smart comments/remarks for youtube or facebook.

Hopefully this will become a useful tool to quickly overcome the inevitable issues we all come across from time to time, and maybe learn a thing or to. Having said that, if you find yourself tackling a bastard of a job, it can't hurt to make a tutorial for the task and post that up in the DIY Section, thus keeping the thread clean and allowing others to gain understanding in the future when they have the same problem.

I will personally start off by seeking help regarding my 1993 R32 GT-R.

Earlier tonight, I was reversing partially into a driveway of an unfimiliar street to perform a three point turn. I thought I was lined up for the centre of the entrance but it was made clear that I wasn't when there was a thud and a scrape so I immidiately stopped the car. I had made contact with the undercarriage of the car and the concrete kerb which did not stand high, but the camber of the road made it very unforgiving.

I knew any damage was already done, so I moved forward and immediately noticed a change in the exhaust note. I immediately assumed the worst and upon visual inspection the whole exhaust system from the cat-back has been pushed forward. As you can see in the pics the exhaust is no longer attached to the cat but looks to me like it could be slotted back in and welded (?)

Luckily I wasn't far from home and drive roughly 2 kilometres to further inspect the damage. While driving, it was clearly obvious that both performance and sound were impacted. As concerned as I was at this point, I kind of enjoyed the 'straight through' sound the car was emitting. Upon arrival home, I immediately observed a minor water leak which I am presuming is coming from the turbo hard water line. I am replacing my turbos very soon but my concern is fixing this first so I can actually drive the car, is this possible without extensive removal of other components? Especially considering the future turbo swap..

Alternatively, can anyone tell from the pic which line is the problem (if it isn't the hard water line)?? I have full sets of braided lines for both oil and water ready to go as part of the turbo swap..

I know a few decent welders but is there any things that need to be considered before welding the catback back into position?

Here are some pics: due to it being dark and my car being low it's the best I could do atm.

1. The catback and what looks like some sort of adaptor still attached to the cat, is this a simple re-align and tig-weld affair?

2. Photo taken from where the water was dripping onto the ground, so I could envisage the broken component. I am led to believe the water leak is coming from the left line, which looks to me like it is broken and pushed up. Can anyone confirm what components we are looking at here and if anything doesn't look right?

I don't have the means to get the car to a repairer until later this week and would like to try and fix it myself/with help if possible.. can anyone elaborate on all this mumbo jumbo? haha

[Madaz]

good idea for a thread Matty

little black pipe is that where your water is coming from? if so that's your air con overflow hose

if not im not sure what you want me to see

??

[Matty Sherlock]

Thanks steve. I suspected the hose you have circled is the air con overflow, it is the object (best name for it atm haha) starting in the bottom left of the pic that concerns me. I don't know what i'm looking at so I could be wrong to say there is a leak. Whatever that part is. it looks broken to me

[Fliggy]

Great idea for a thread Matty, thumbs up

How much water is coming out of that pipe you are talking about? If it's the silver looking one then I would say that the silver is just a sleeve to help protect the hose as the turbos at work have them for the oil return line. Also if you can try and check the bolts holding the hose/pipe on and feel for a leak as a washer or O'ring could be worn and causing a leak.

As for the exhaust, it looks like part of the pipe is missing because it should just bolt straight back up from what I can see but i'm no exhausr expert.......not all exhausts bolt up the same way. Hope this info helps bud.

[Carbon 34]

that dump pipe had cold welds on it, the adapter is sheered off due to bad welds , easy fix with a mig or tig welder but best to remove the pipe from the front and the flange on the cat that belongs to it. shouldnt cost much to weld maybe a 6 pack ? if you remove the pipe first ?

watch the studs they will break off if you dont soak them on WD40 first ? make sure you wipe off the WD40 afterwards or it will catch fire , dont spray on hot pipes !!!

from the looks of the black hose its the A/C drain line, from the de humidified air , just like a house it drops distilled water, but shouldnt be so close to the dump pipe ? melt issues ?

cant' tell from the photos but the silver line might be cracked loose ?

check the area around the head to cast iron manifold as well, mine broke the back 2 studs on the head (its possible you could have cracked the head around a stud but not likely )mine was thanks to flinders car park near ER. little pole on the ground yanked mine and crushed my SS hotdog flat(cleared it the day before but it wasnt folded flat the following day , I was only going 5kph tops. but came to a halt the second it hit

next day car was raised by 10mm

[Matty Sherlock]

That's some awesome feedback, Carbon 34! Thanks exactly what this thread needs. However, I bit the bullet and drove the car down to Exhaust Tech (sounding like Willall RH9 mind you) and it turned out to be a very painless fix!

Due to the aftermarket exhaust being on the car when I purchased it, the exact specs were unknown to me. Up on the hoist, it was confirmed be a titanium item. The adaptor flange being mild steel, is simply bolted to the cat and the exhaust slides over it and is held with springs to accomodate for a bit of flex. The brackets that attach to the rubber mounts did bend a little in the impact, but this was fixed quite easily and it appears there are no leaks.

$100 fix and i'm very happy. Of course I assumed the worse in the dark last night :S

I will definitely be inspecting the manifolds though, that is always a worry!

Thanks for your help everyone, some very valid points put out!

[Carbon 34]

That's some awesome feedback, Carbon 34! Thanks exactly what this thread needs. However, I bit the bullet and drove the car down to Exhaust Tech (sounding like Willall RH9 mind you) and it turned out to be a very painless fix!

Due to the aftermarket exhaust being on the car when I purchased it, the exact specs were unknown to me. Up on the hoist, it was confirmed be a titanium item. The adaptor flange being mild steel, is simply bolted to the cat and the exhaust slides over it and is held with springs to accomodate for a bit of flex. The brackets that attach to the rubber mounts did bend a little in the impact, but this was fixed quite easily and it appears there are no leaks.

$100 fix and i'm very happy. Of course I assumed the worse in the dark last night :S

I will definitely be inspecting the manifolds though, that is always a worry!

Thanks for your help everyone, some very valid points put out!

Your welcome mate , titanium ....me want .. ..lol that would expain why it looked like bad weld from the photo, its not welded at all..lol just looked dodgy but Mild steel wont hold on titanium welded .

(ex certified welder from the navy days)

if you did crack your manifold you can braize it or cast iron weld it. with skill, or dump it for another one. doubt it but you never know

[J - Rad]

If any of your turbo lines are damaged, you've got NO CHANCE of changing them with the turbos still on. Looks like the turbo swap starts early!

[Matty Sherlock]

Havent boosted it hard today, not much point in the warmer weather. But I did make the 10 or so km journey home without a hiccup. I guess the lesson learned here is "titanium exhuasts mandatory for gtr's" haha

[J - Rad]

My tip is titanium, so I guess I'm safe

[MAD R33]

hey guys looking for someone to help me put my new plenum on all that needs to be done is put the hoses back on ect can be anyone that's know how to do it and knows what there doing.. need help plz ASAP Thanks

[Matty Sherlock]

Suss the tutorials man it can be done with the right tools and patience. Ive heard getting a cheap spanner set and heating them up to bend them to accomodate the engine bay crampage is a useful excercise.

[MAD R33]

Suss the tutorials man it can be done with the right tools and patience. Ive heard getting a cheap spanner set and heating them up to bend them to accomodate the engine bay crampage is a useful excercise.

if this was for me.. i done most of the work its just i do not know where all the hoses get put back in to.. here is a pic of what it looks like right now

Edited October 13, 2011 by MAD R33

[On Edge]

My mates s1 r33 rb25 is turning off when he hits 2k an hunting on idle what could it be? Pcv valve blocked? AFM stuffed?

[dark.sky]

I'd try another AFM as first port of call.

[MAD R33]

hey guys looking for someone to help me put my new plenum on all that needs to be done is put the hoses back on ect can be anyone that's know how to do it and knows what there doing.. need help plz ASAP Thanks

if any one know how to put all the lines and hose back on plenum i would be happy to give $50 for the job im going crazy not having the car on the road some help would be good thanks live in south around the bay lol

[On Edge]

I'd try another AFM as first port of call.

That's the main suspect, will have to give it a go, also, who knows what afm contact cleaner I need an where to get?

[Captain Natro]

Ive done a search on SAU and also on google, and ive also done a post but no one really helped.

I have an Auto R33 Non Turbo, and the car wont kick down to first gear at low speeds unless I come to a complete stop this is extreamly frustrating and dangerous. so my question is, how can i make the car kick down to first / how can i lock the car in first so it wont shift up to second automatically (i cant find a way to do this manually as the Tbar reads (23DNRP) where most other automatics for example a magna go (123DNRP)...

If anyone has any information on this please PM me, Thanks Nikk

[Damo_R34]

how is it dangerous?

[Krishy]

Ive done a search on SAU and also on google, and ive also done a post but no one really helped.

I have an Auto R33 Non Turbo, and the car wont kick down to first gear at low speeds unless I come to a complete stop this is extreamly frustrating and dangerous. so my question is, how can i make the car kick down to first / how can i lock the car in first so it wont shift up to second automatically (i cant find a way to do this manually as the Tbar reads (23DNRP) where most other automatics for example a magna go (123DNRP)...

If anyone has any information on this please PM me, Thanks Nikk

As far as I know, with auto's you can't really get it to hold one gear, unless they have a HOLD button. This is very rare to find in autos. My advice would be to get a manual box transplanted in there mate. Much easier to hold 1 gear