Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks steve and luke.. we left it idling in the driveway for about an hour once first started up, and drove it gingerly for the 5 k's , but you still think the squealing is because we didnt prime them and the turbos are stuffed because of a split second without oil??

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry for the blatant obvious, but maybe let a mechanic have a look at it before you go pulling a turbo off again........possibly needlessly

What area are you in? There's always a decent workshop nearby.

+1

But also, can't leaky exhaust manifold gaskets make a car squeal under load? Thinking of cars I've heard around Malalla/Winton here.

Yup, mine has howling/squealing like a banshee at the October track day last year when the engine gave way, and it was due to a gasket on the turbo spacer blowing out.

Cheers guys !! Sled it's getting looked at right now, but the owner is a mechanic and we had another mechanic look at it last night, it could quite possibly be the exhaust manifold gaskets as when the new turbos were put on the old manifold gaskets weren't replaced (all other gaskets were though)

Cheers guys !! Sled it's getting looked at right now, but the owner is a mechanic and we had another mechanic look at it last night, it could quite possibly be the exhaust manifold gaskets as when the new turbos were put on the old manifold gaskets weren't replaced (all other gaskets were though)

Hopefully thats what it is, I dont reuse gaskets ever, unless they are like just the joins in the exhaust or something, every time the turbo or the manifold comes off the motor its treated to new gaskets.

I think the gasket kit for the turbos didn't come with one for obvious reasons but I just think it was overlooked because of that reason. not exactly sure. and there's a lot of burning coming off the turbos as in smoke, would that just be due to touching every part numerous times with oily hands and it's simply just burning off??

Use the genuine Nissan turbo gaskets, a lot better then the aftermarkets, I have used the Garrett ones on mine and the Nissan ones are far better.

Also, did you reuse the copper washers or use new ones?

is there anything to do with a plug on the turbo? a drain of some sort that your meant to unplug?? or does this ring any bells for anything that might make more sense to you guys?

Hi pitch squeal, look at the induction side of the turbo's, the y piece between the turbos may be loose or gasket leaking you should be looking for a boost leak through a very small orifice had this on mine before.

Hope it helps

Devo

Hopefully thats what it is, I dont reuse gaskets ever, unless they are like just the joins in the exhaust or something, every time the turbo or the manifold comes off the motor its treated to new gaskets.

Word. Get the OEM VRK (?) set and you'll get every gasket that you need, to nissan spec. If its good enough for nissan, 99% its good for every other dude out there... only non nissan gasket I got is the cometic MLS 1.3mm head gasket....

I even have gaskets left over I reckon I'll eventually use - won't have to pay for the individual component when the 20 year old oem eventually gives way

-D

Word. Get the OEM VRK (?) set and you'll get every gasket that you need, to nissan spec. If its good enough for nissan, 99% its good for every other dude out there... only non nissan gasket I got is the cometic MLS 1.3mm head gasket....

I even have gaskets left over I reckon I'll eventually use - won't have to pay for the individual component when the 20 year old oem eventually gives way

-D

you thinking of a VRS kit mang?

Edited by DamageInc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...