The 'someone Help Me' Thread

[On Edge]

hahahaha thanks steve lol

[Samuel Leonard]

hahahaha thanks steve lol

why does it matter? i don't care if you think it's weird or not funny. i've got a quirky sense of humor that you'll never understand through text on a forum and i'm not planning to change it unless i see something better which you probably won't approve of either. wasn't supposed to be a come back before because it's not an argument. just me being me.

Edited November 22, 2011 by Samuel Leonard

[Dohmar]

why does it matter? i don't care if you think it's weird or not funny. i've got a quirky sense of humor that you'll never understand through text on a forum and i'm not planning to change it unless i see something better which you probably won't approve of either. wasn't supposed to be a come back before because it's not an argument. just me being me.

+1, QFT

-D

[On Edge]

no problem with you being you mate,

once upon a time people did know what was appropriate an not appropriate.

[Matty Sherlock]

I don't think your sig is an issue sam but we all know only d**kheads have their full name as their username

[Samuel Leonard]

I don't think your sig is an issue sam but we all know only d**kheads have their full name as their username

Haha. Cheers Matty Sherlock

[Captain Natro]

Hey guys probley gona get flamed like hell but, ive taken off the standard cross over pipe off my NA skyline and replaced it with straight steel piping without a resonator box. Atm, from the throttle body there is a 45 degree 3inch silicon joiner, then about 30cm of metal pipe then a 3inch joiner, the AFM and a pod filter. As soon as i start the car it stalls instantly, if i rev it slightly it will run but very poorly and as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator the car stalls.

There are two hoses that are not connected to anything atm, on runs to the intake manifold and the other to the top of the cam covers, these at present are not joined to anything. how can this problem be fixed?

(Worst case senario, ill just put the standard cross over pipe back on. But would like to get this to work as have heard the induction noise using metal pipe sounds ok )

Thanks Nikk

[Captain Natro]

Hey guys probley gona get flamed like hell but, ive taken off the standard cross over pipe off my NA skyline and replaced it with straight steel piping without a resonator box. Atm, from the throttle body there is a 45 degree 3inch silicon joiner, then about 30cm of metal pipe then a 3inch joiner, the AFM and a pod filter. As soon as i start the car it stalls instantly, if i rev it slightly it will run but very poorly and as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator the car stalls.

There are two hoses that are not connected to anything atm, on runs to the intake manifold and the other to the top of the cam covers, these at present are not joined to anything. how can this problem be fixed?

(Worst case senario, ill just put the standard cross over pipe back on. But would like to get this to work as have heard the induction noise using metal pipe sounds ok )

Thanks Nikk

Thanks to Zebra this may of been resolved, apparently the pipe running from the manifold back to the inlet pipe needs to be plumbed into the intake pipe itself..

[Samuel Leonard]

Thanks to Zebra this may of been resolved, apparently the pipe running from the manifold back to the inlet pipe needs to be plumbed into the intake pipe itself..

Yep. Sounds like a severe vacuum leak. Basically by not having that hose connected you're allowing a lot of air into the intake that is un-metred. All air entering the intake has to go through the airflow meter otherwise it will run like shit and run lean.

Edited December 4, 2011 by Samuel Leonard

[Fliggy]

I know i'm and apprentice mechanic and I should know what's wrong with the car but I don't and just want peoples opinions in what might be the problem.

Recently at times my fuel pump wont prime on start up but after you hit it then it would prime but today it has been realy bad, went to start it to go to work and didn't prime and it needed a few good hits and when leaving work today it took a couple more hard hits to work then filled the car up on south rd with BP Ultimate as usual and was about to exit the petty station and it stalled and wouldn't start for about 10min even with hitting the crap out of the fuel pump and swithing the ignition on and off to get it to prime.

Finaly got it started and 1km down the road it stalled again and did the same thing it did at the petty station........wouldn't prime for 10min, once it started I took off and when leaving some lights 2 min after it surged after changing to second (full tank of fuel)

Later after I left a mayes house it stalled after going around a round about a little too fast by accident after the rear slid out abit but the car started shortly after while cranking the car and having a mate belt the crap out of the fuel pump.

My 32 has a Walbro but not sure what one exactly as it came with the car. I wriggled the wires on top of the sender unit to see if that would do anything but it didn't. I have been told before that fuel pumps don't start to die they just die without warning that's why I would like some opinions.

Cheers Tim

[Tommy Kaira RL]

If the brushes on the fuel pump motor are worn to there limits then they wont be contacting the armature on the shaft to energize the magnetic fields to make it turn.

A wire could break but still make a circuit when the insulation is holding it together. Then when everything warms up the insulation stretches and pulls the wire apart

Try puling each wire from its ends and see if the insulation stretches anywhere.

Check for voltage at the pump you might see the volts go from 12 to 0 then its the wiring. If you have constant 12v at the pump and the pump stops then its the pump.

Also do the relay mod and run a heavier wire to the pump through the relay.

[Fliggy]

Thanks Brad, i'll have to so that when I get back to my mums tomorrow night.

[Carbon 34]

I think you solved your own issue just buy a hammer to fix it..lol

brads right most likely R31 do that all the time,

also

check for dead fuel pump relay, think its a green one on that car. or some nissan use a transistor inside the ecu , which fry with big loads on big pumps

bad ground on pump ?

vapour locked, bad fuel.. when it happens open fuel lid let out hiss, try to start the car with the lid off fuel tank. E85 and E10 do this a lot , even more so at high altitude , not so much here

low voltage/intermittent voltage from worn out ignition barrel , heavy key chains are death to cars, car has a tiny fuel leak that airlocks the pump

[Fliggy]

It's the last time I drive the 32 on Friday 13th lol

[GTR-32]

Hey people, What does it mean when your car pretty much stalls taking off from traffic lights, coughs and splutters until you rev it a little, and power cuts out as your driving? Does it in every gear, but doesn't do it every/all the time (exept for last night) Had the 'exhaust gas temperature' light flash a few times last night as well, guessing that'd be due to higher revs, as last night was the first time the car has done that. Has stalled a few times when starting it up, only in the morning when the cars cold though.. Never cuts out completely when driving, just seems as though the motors not getting fuel? Seems to run a little better when I put octane booster in. Had a new turbo and stock exhaust put on recently, dont know if that'd have anything to do with it though? Got me baffled.

[Madaz]

could be a AFM dying (dry solder joints common in RB)

[typevu]

Yeah sounds like AFM... symptoms sounds like what happened to my old GTR which was then fixed when I re-soldered the joints in the AFM.

[Matty Sherlock]

Try to keep her off boost till you fix the problem mate, rb's and detonation dont go well together

[Madaz]

I don't know any engine that likes detonation

[GTR-32]

Yeah read up on google that it could be detonation. Always something, fix one problem and another comes up. Will have a look at the AFM. Cheers for he help