Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys before i get nailed for this i have done my research and I am well aware that a standard R34 GTR will handle 350awkw but ive only heard this on forums.

Ive gone to several workshops (dont want to name places) and all of them so far have told me that I would need to be changing my frontmount.

Car is going to be a simple -9's setup: Turbo back exhaust, Tomei Type B camshafts, Nismo fuel pump + afm's+clutch, powerfc and boost.

From what i hear i will have 310 - 30awkw will be achievable with the above after tuning with the standard intercooler but as a few workshops have told me they become too restrictive and require more boost from the turbos to push through the same amount of power (+2 psi ontop of what i would need to run say if i had a cooler with bigger core)

Just wondering if anyone can clarify this for me?

Edited by PSI-FED

You're only going for really what is a 'mild' setup.

Spend the cash elsewhere. Sure there maybe an improvement... But you're not going to go from say 300 to 330 rwkw by a cooler change...

Definitely no need to change cooler for -9s

I'll hopefully have some back to back with a GReedy core late this year to help remove the doubt and show the GTR core is great for under 380-400rwkw.

do not bother with changing your intercooler.

i went from a R34 GTR cooler (60mm thick) to an ARC (70mm thick) cooler. and there was absolutely no difference!

this was the only change i made to the car, and the car still pulled 360rwkw on 24psi boost on E85.

i have -5's so they are a little bigger than the -9's i think?

there were no significant signs that the intake temps were too high or it was restricting flow too much. i thought by changing it, i would've been able to hit my power goal of 500hp but it looks like i might have to try a set of poncams.

also, i wouldnt bother with poncams for anything up to 350kw, my std head pulled 369rwkw and this was without adj cam gears.

with the poncams, you will lose response for very minimal gain if at all for anything under 350kw.

Also pretty interested in the difference over a R32 R33 GTR cooler.

Have read and been told they have a higher flow?? or slightly better core which allows better cooling?

Currently have a R34 Gtr cooler to put into my R32 Gtr.

My favourite one is people expecting more power by upgrading R32GTR stock injectors with R34GTR stock injectors

i can vouch for this one!

but its only because my R32 GTR injectors were leaking really badly. whenever i drove it all you could smell was fuel!

do not bother with changing your intercooler.

i went from a R34 GTR cooler (60mm thick) to an ARC (70mm thick) cooler. and there was absolutely no difference!

this was the only change i made to the car, and the car still pulled 360rwkw on 24psi boost on E85.

i have -5's so they are a little bigger than the -9's i think?

there were no significant signs that the intake temps were too high or it was restricting flow too much. i thought by changing it, i would've been able to hit my power goal of 500hp but it looks like i might have to try a set of poncams.

also, i wouldnt bother with poncams for anything up to 350kw, my std head pulled 369rwkw and this was without adj cam gears.

with the poncams, you will lose response for very minimal gain if at all for anything under 350kw.

Thanks for the advice mate.

I was well aware that the standard cooler was fine but just speaking to a few workshops got me abit confused and I dont think its a money making issue because i specified to them that i'd be fitting the cooler on my self.

Im interested in your statement in regards to the poncams you made, can someone please elaborate abit more on it? I couldnt resist getting them at the price that i found them but didnt realise they would be a hinderance to my setup instead of a benefit..

the poncams wouldnt be too much of a hindrance on your setup.

but in all honesty you'd probably be better off with std cams and some cam gears for those turbo's

you'd get better response and the turbo's would probably max out before the std cams would.

i'd offer to buy the poncams off you at a good price ! :rolleyes:

but you've got a R34 GTR and i have a R32 GTR, i dont think the cam's are interchangable.

i think the R32&33 ones are the same and the R34 has a different CAS?

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...