Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you get desperate and feel like driving over east you can borrow mine :thumbsup:

EDIT: aren't us eastsiders a good bunch haha

Yeah whilst you give him the solenoid and make him a drink. I will put his car on bricks and take his wheels :ninja:

Tony, does it go from 5psi to 7psi?

Billy, PM John Aja ssxRicho, I think he have couple from his wreck(s)

Yeah. Though actually better get them off Rick or John though, not sure where mine is in the garage atm.

Just buy one already...

Clicky

Was looking at that one for a while...glad I didn't buy it because the engine popped and he dropped the price to about 18.5k...now rebuilding the engine himself and has put the price back up again.

Just buy one already...

Clicky

Was looking at that one for a while...glad I didn't buy it because the engine popped and he dropped the price to about 18.5k...now rebuilding the engine himself and has put the price back up again.

on the way home was thinking either a low'ish K FD or a high'ish K M3 the way i see it they'll both probably end up being money pits and cost about the same to maintain etc

hopefully this dude buys my car then whatever comes up first i'll probably grab

6-8 x 4

no spotter

drove next to a red FD on the way home, they sit pretty nice and low :dry:

Many lolz I have had benching with no spotter and getting stuck

+ 1 on the FD. But either way can't lose if your other option is an M3.

Any exciting car is going to end up a money pit. You either buy an every-man-and-his-dog Commodore/Falcon and enjoy the cheap parts and reliability, or buy a real sports car and fork out for it - but catch peoples looks when you drive past.

That said, I'd take an FD over an M3 as far as money pit status goes. 13B and RX7 bits can be found everywhere...that M3 engine pops and you're in strife!

Many lolz I have had benching with no spotter and getting stuck

+ 1 on the FD. But either way can't lose if your other option is an M3.

hahah sometimes i spot for my brother or his mate but instead i just stand there watching them suffer ^^,

Any exciting car is going to end up a money pit. You either buy an every-man-and-his-dog Commodore/Falcon and enjoy the cheap parts and reliability, or buy a real sports car and fork out for it - but catch peoples looks when you drive past.

That said, I'd take an FD over an M3 as far as money pit status goes. 13B and RX7 bits can be found everywhere...that M3 engine pops and you're in strife!

by the time an m3 engine pops the rotor would've most likely popped 3 or 4 times lol

just going by what i hear/read rotors are trouble but yeah...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...