Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Miyako near the Langham isn't to expensive and tastes pretty good

Not only quick gears but its would still be running the stock turbo so they are made to be really responsive

all you really need in an evo (not including 8mr or 9) is a tune, exhaust, licp, ebc and 8mr/9 turbo and you will get about 230-240awkw

makes for a really responsive and fun daily, get some tephra mods tuned into it and you get this, that was basic flamage to what it could do though

POP POP POP (Y)

If you are going to use it - wipe surface first with wet cloth and dry.

Then use that

Then wipe again with dry cloth

Much better result and it won't "attract" the fken dust...

But that said ring Waxit lol... SOOOoooo much better products they have.

Ah yeah ill give that a crack next time but agreed waxit much better just had this lying around

on another note, just watched this - pretty funny

(this is part 2)

They really aren't anymore expensive than other places until you talk engine builds... But then theirs dont grenade or breathe heavy like other builders so you do get what you pay for there also ;)

ahh i see..

well i was quoted alot more from chasers in west melb for the same ammount of work..

yeah im planning on a rebuild pretty soon, and ive been told its like 7K, but ive seen a few other r33 gtr's which have been rebuilt by them and everyone says the work is complete quality.

just need to save more :P

Ah yeah ill give that a crack next time but agreed waxit much better just had this lying around

on another note, just watched this - pretty funny

(this is part 2)

ahh ive been looking forward to seeing this! :D

Anthony, why do you want to rebuild the motor?

Just curious myself.

there is a constant tapping noise which i think is a bearing, i can hear on decel very clearly, its not as loud as alot ive heard before but ill see what they say when i take it in anyway..

there is a constant tapping noise which i think is a bearing, i can hear on decel very clearly, its not as loud as alot ive heard before but ill see what they say when i take it in anyway..

Uh-oh...

Get Alvin to hook you up with some wagyu, that's what I'm cooking tonight.

Aaron ad Leigh are now aware.

Lol yeh alvin will be paying me to do his guards in wagyu. Who wants to hot up hibachi with me n the missus on sat night?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...