Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTRs are good and all but too old to buy now IMO, even when I spoke to Vu about his 34 he said he had to replace some major parts that were rusted the same as my R33 :\

Id go for a mid 2000s evo instead if possible (7-8-9) but don't really like the interior that much

what it sounds like? lol i've read it three times and sounds the same.. maybe my mind is f**ked today

Lol your brain is fried.

I read it as:

The difference between driving his GTS-R and an R34 GTR weight difference was similar to the differences between an EVO and R33 GTR being about 250kg's

Lol your brain is fried.

I read it as:

The difference between driving his GTS-R and an R34 GTR weight difference was similar to the differences between an EVO and R33 GTR being about 250kg's

Oh brains fried.

inb4 Richo buys one for Time Attack

lol, don't event tempt me more than I am. Such an easy car to go fast in, extracting that little extra is super hard though.

8mr ftw

errrr, yep there goes the value for money. 8MR is like buying a NUR, well not a far as NUR but similar. It's the pimp spec, but for the same money you can make a much better VIII or IX.

VII is what...17K buy price (22K asking) and a VIII MR is 30K buy price. I'd buy a IX over an VIII MR any day, they are pretty much the same price and the IX is far superior engine wise.

One of the OTR VIII is up for sale atm, bargain for what it is.

Also Dan's East Beat GTT is for sale again in the ACT.

Yeh I'm considering 6 or 7.. Hopefully this guy buys my car

7>6 any day... 6 are too outdated

Fair point. Apparently the VII have weaker rods though, although I prefer the VII To the other girly ones. Not gonna do much if I get one though so come at me weak rods

I've heard of guys running upt o 260kw or more in 7s as long as you don't have a huge torque curve it'll last

It's actually the quick torque from responsive power setups that generally kill the rods

however to rebuild forged 2.4litre engine is cheaper than rebuilding a forged 2litre

5 was the best looking Evo. Or should I say, the least ugly.

I'm a HUGE 5 fan, but they are way to outdated now

plus to mod them they cost more than the newer models

Add 18" wheels/tyres, exhausts, bigger brakes (a common GTR upgrade where EVO doesn't) and so on and it can certainly get higher :)

I suspect a R33 is heavier than 1550 to start off with. My GTS-R was 1400kg without me in it as i weighed it, and the GTR feels a LOT heavier than 150kg more. I remember driving Snowys R34 years back and it felt like at least 250-300kgs packed into it as it was similar from driving a EVO6 to a R33 GTR feels about the same in terms of difference.

Plus half the time the figures are not 100% accurate from a manufacturer as they dont say if its kerb weight (full fluids) or not.

EVO's are on par easily with GTR's, well the ct9a anyway

Few of the evolutionoz.net guys have weighed them and they come up to about 1450kg with half tank of full (about 29litres LOL)

A 6 and a 33R similar weight? No chance .. ive driven both and the 6 feels much lighter, even though the 33 R ha more power.

Maybe a 7 might be nearing the weight of a 33r but I doubt it

different cars, the gtr being longer is less 'nimble' so the evo with feel lighter anyway

they heavy cars, the only really light ones are the RS's

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...