Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so looking for some Vic knowledge.

guy we were at dinner with galimed some Skylie experience.

apparently owns from his desesed faters estate:

a R33 GTR with 7K kms.

Plus a heavily worked R34.

Built by a workshop in Plenty

Hollinger sequential gear box, engine rebuild turbo, blah blah blah.

and done a lot of "private" track days. so Driver dynamics and such.

Silver.

myself and flying fridge, (another SAU Motorsport guy) have never seen nor heard of these...

called bull shit.

guy is apparently going to call us to examine cars.

any-one heard/seen these.

And Hamish/Martin, I'm at a pub in Budapest and they serve a HB Munchen with a slice of lemon on top, is it normal?

Cos another place, they also have HB Munchen but they don't serve lemon on top...

yeah larger is a bad sign

the point of the lemon is to mask the off smell it corona is bottle fermented so has a yeasty small, the lemon hides that...

if it the same beer it could be a culture thing, or a more ulterior motive.

If you spill any beer on your blouse you can use the lemon to stop it staining

Oh?

Not that I care about beer spilling into my clothing, I often rub my jeans when I've got bit of a spill on my hands.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...