Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wtf is the a/d light? lol

the 910 is only rated to around 400hp, will be using it as a lift pump to my surge tank

a/d light is the error light for cruise control.

i'm still running stock boost, so i dont think it matters, i won't really go past 250rwkw on that thing anyway.

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1 to the falcon, i drive one daily and it is just superior for doing the km's, 10L/100kms it is just pure torque, its an auto and 1700rpm just gear changes flowing and keeps up with traffic, easy and economical what more can you ask for? handles like a boat but thats not what its being used for lol..

Yeah, the torque compared to an rb30e is quite plentiful. They get going for such a big car, 5 speed makes it fun too. Doesnt handle as well as old car tho, but I dont care, just a daily thats fun and good on fuel. ($40/week and I drive almost every day)

Fuel light (im pretty sure) is fursest to the left on the bottom

I think it really just comes down to the condition of the car, im getting really good KM's out of my car now

Its pretty much the L-package...has all the options except leather

Prob weighs 1650 less driver

I hated that surge with less than 10L in the tank...fixed it with a new pump though, can go WOT with 5L and no surge

1620 according to the rego papers

aaaannnndddd R33s have a 65L tank

Then why does it get full from under the empty line on around 45?

Probably not empty? Also do you stop filling when the pump stops or keep going till it's at the brim of the tank? I got 62L in mine last week.

Then why does it get full from under the empty line on around 45?

Probably not empty? Also do you stop filling when the pump stops or keep going till it's at the brim of the tank? I got 62L in mine last week.

this. most cars will have the fuel light come on with about 10L left in the tank. the most i ever got into my 33 was 60L and the light was on for a little bit.

apologies if this has already been said before but i had a similar problem with economy in my GTS N/A.

fixed it with brand new O2 sensor, new plugs, new air filter n cleaned the AFM. Then i reset the ecu. economy increased by 15%+

Usually the O2 sensor on the old N/A's is to blame. Cos they require less attention than turbo's people naturally give em less. So things like this go unchecked...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...