Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just installed a AFR display today and it was reading 13.5:1

Is this a normal ratio? My fuel economy has been pretty poor as well :/

EDIT: Shit, Must I add I'm running a R33 GTS '93 RB25DE

Only mods is a K&N high flow panel filter & the muffler replaced with a cannon.

Thanks guys.

Edited by S3RK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380458-running-too-lean-on-afrs/
Share on other sites

If it's only the gauge connected to the factory sensor, then ignore the gauge. It's designed for a wideband sensor, not a narrow band sensor, all that they can read is "Lean, Stoich, Rich" they don't return an AFR.

It's one that actually displays numbers, but I'm having a few issues with it so it's not actually displaying the correct ratio -_-

So what should idle, cruise and full throttle be, just good ratios that won't hurt the car?

Is the only thing that you purchased, the gauge? Does it have a new sensor, or does it wire into the old sensor?

If its using the standard sensor, you remove it from the car, and throw it in the bin. It will be as useful in the bin, as it is in your car then.

as above, how do you have it hooked up? if it's simply running off the stock o2 sensor then ignore it as it won't tell you squat, except for at light load when it may tell you whether your o2 sensor is working properly or not.

^All of the above, it was given to me, the jaycar one that you build yourself. It's hooked up to the ecu wire.

I hooked up my ecu cable today and ran a error test, apparently my knock sensor has an error for the last 25 starts (I believe ECU holds up to 50?)

and roughly 25 starts ago I had to take my car to the mechanic, he is a dodgy mechanic but I was forced to take it there. After he replaced my clutch there was a red light for the exhaust I believe on the dash, so I asked him wtf is this shit and he raises the car back up, pulls this cable out of the cat converter (I think) and rips the inner wire completely out and puts the cable back in, then tells me it's fixed. :/

I believe that's the secondary o2 sensor? Does it affect the car in any way?

Where abouts is the knock sensor located? and can I replace it?

Thanks in advanced

That was the temp sensor for the cat. It comes on when exhaust temps are way to hight (ie a blocked cat). Has nothing to do with O2. It simply just brings the light up on the dash.

It sounds like you have just put a AFR gauge onto a stock narrow band sensor. Meaning it is absolutely pointless.

Yeah sounds like its reading off the stock sensor. If you want to check your AFR's I'd suggest taking it to a tuner and spending $100 putting it on a dyno and getting them to tell you how it is. If its just a stock ECU this would be your best option, but it shouldnt be running lean.

If aftermarket ECU then I suggest getting a good quality wideband kit.

BTW 13.5:1 sounds rich if anything for an NA, probably about right on stock ECU

Nope.

However the fact the light on the dash came on could be an indication of a collapsed cat.

in 99% of cases though it is caused by the sensor being dodgy. mine used to come on the moment i started the car, so unless someone had stolen my car and parked it a few seconds before i walked out the door to go to work i was pretty sure it was a dodgy sensor, LOL

^All of the above, it was given to me, the jaycar one that you build yourself. It's hooked up to the ecu wire.

I hooked up my ecu cable today and ran a error test, apparently my knock sensor has an error for the last 25 starts (I believe ECU holds up to 50?)

and roughly 25 starts ago I had to take my car to the mechanic, he is a dodgy mechanic but I was forced to take it there. After he replaced my clutch there was a red light for the exhaust I believe on the dash, so I asked him wtf is this shit and he raises the car back up, pulls this cable out of the cat converter (I think) and rips the inner wire completely out and puts the cable back in, then tells me it's fixed. :/

I believe that's the secondary o2 sensor? Does it affect the car in any way?

Where abouts is the knock sensor located? and can I replace it?

Thanks in advanced

If it's not had a replacement sensor placed in the dump pipe, do yourself a favour, remove the AFR gauge, and forget you ever started this thread.

+1

And the cat sensor is uselesss on 99% of highflow cats because there is no point to install it so maybe invest in a highflow cat and forget that the mechanic ripped it out? Exhaust shops tuck the sensor under the heatshild when fitting the cats so they are simply installed for someone to say "hey my cars got a warning like, better take it to the mechanic".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...