Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't have a spare car anymore, it's a custom made intake, no where to weld into. So no breather return until I make a new intake again ( number 4. And find a way to get a boost feed through a rubber hose.

Stao - it hasn't arrived yet

I... Don't understand lol.

Why is there no where to weld into? Are you saying it's made of rubber? That's even easier then man, you simply do as Sarge suggested and buy a brass nipple, heat it up so it's nice and hot, then push it into the pipe. Very cheap, and makes it's own seal.

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My intake consists of a 45 degree rubber bend 2 inches of steel pipe then more silicon pipe onto the afm. In the 2 inch pipe I have my bov return, I will try to make a new one and move the return so I can fit another pipe in but there isn't much space.

Mods list, il type in order that I did them- hks high power cat back, gutted cat, k&n panel filter, spitfire coil packs, just jap bellmouth dump, just jap front mount, hypergear atr43ss1, Nissan 450cc 350z injectors, walbro gss342, nistune, z32 afm. I think that's all but maybe not.

So put the PCV return on the opposite side of the steel pipe to the BOV return? On a 2" long pipe with 3" diameter, there will be plenty of space to have two nipples.

A temporary option could be to block your bov for now and plumb your breathers into that nipple, at least then it would be somewhat driveable. May not work if the pipes are much different diameter though.

My intake consists of a 45 degree rubber bend 2 inches of steel pipe then more silicon pipe onto the afm. In the 2 inch pipe I have my bov return, I will try to make a new one and move the return so I can fit another pipe in but there isn't much space.

Mods list, il type in order that I did them- hks high power cat back, gutted cat, k&n panel filter, spitfire coil packs, just jap bellmouth dump, just jap front mount, hypergear atr43ss1, Nissan 450cc 350z injectors, walbro gss342, nistune, z32 afm. I think that's all but maybe not.

Nah I meant like every hose connection that you have made. So your boost source is running from the power steering and your pcv valve is venting to atmosphere.

My intake consists of a 45 degree rubber bend 2 inches of steel pipe then more silicon pipe onto the afm. In the 2 inch pipe I have my bov return

gutted cat

The mostly rubber intake could easily be collapsing when your boosting, causing a big boost drop up top.

If that is a stock gutted cat your not going to get farken anywhere with it. The stock cat is a 2.5" item and that half an inch difference will hold back up to tens of KW.

Ok people. Need some ideas, what will cause 400ish ml of oil to pump out of the breather pipe in a split second.

You have a big motor spinning around, sloshing oil everywhere, getting hot and just generally making plenty of vapour needing to be drawn out.

The bottom end would normally breath into the rockers and the rockers would then have the vapour sucked out through the intake pipe using the suction of the turbo.

That circulation system is no longer there, so when your motor builds up too much presure it will pop the dip stick out and indefinitely spray oil everywhere.

Do not bother doing anything but park that car until you have put a proper intake pipe on it and sorted out that gutted cat. Make sure you hook up the breathers properly and the BOV, get a boost source from your first available cooler pipe while your at it.

The rubber bend is off a ken worth truck, I dont think it can suck shut, I covered the air box hole and it actually hurt my hand before it sucked anything shut. I realize it would suck a lot harder under load/boost but I was curious.

I understand the vapors coming out but a big stream?? If it was hooked up my turbo would have drowned I oil.

The cat is a 3" cat.

I'm doing a compression test tonight to see if the rings are stuffed.

On a side note to add to my awesome luck with cars, my wife's car is melting fuses now. Yay :(

Instead of starting a new thread, here is some symptoms any clues would be appreciated

Misses badly over 4000rpm, idles on 3 cylinders, backfires on gearcchages after it misses. runs perfectly when the tps is disconnected,

Ahh ok AFM well if that's f**ked its even worse. The factory ecu will still run the car with the afm disconnected in a limp home mode.

It will run rich and with low timing with hard coded values as well as a much lower rev limiter. With extra richness is probably what's making it smooth

I would suggest re soldering the AFM before moving on to a new one. should take half an hour and could save you a bit of money.

The rubber bend is off a ken worth truck, I dont think it can suck shut, I covered the air box hole and it actually hurt my hand before it sucked anything shut. I realize it would suck a lot harder under load/boost but I was curious.

I understand the vapors coming out but a big stream?? If it was hooked up my turbo would have drowned I oil.

Number 1, your pipe could still be sucking shut at 20psi.

Number 2, if you have no crank case ventilation and the bottom end is full of gas/vapour/pressure what do you think will happen in the head? The RB's number 1 f*ck up is its oil system, it pumps too fast and drains too slow.

Putting 2 and 2 together your crank case needs ventilation so you dont get excess gas and oil sloshing around where you dont want it and it wont come streaming out the breathers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...