Jump to content
SAU Community

Thread For My Car Problems.

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Tony de Wonderful Veteran

Tony de Wonderful

Posted
Posted

yeah i meant i would be doing all the stuffing around while on the dyno. if its all caused by detonation then there is my answer, i didnt realize detonation could wear out rings. but it is good to know that the tune is to blame. so thanx *** *********** for all the problems you have caused, apart from the oil pouring out which was caused by the rings dieing due to prolonged detonation im guessing. that same detonation sound could be heard from the second i picked up my car, thats half the reason i called them 10 minutes after i picked it up, and never got a call back.

oh well new motor and new tuner, lets hope it all goes well.

25 psi was the problem not the tune per se. Please understand this FFS. Just a few secs of det at this boost level toasted your motor not 'prolonged det'.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

If you go back far enough the issue was setting up boost control on an untuned stock ecu and had moments of uncontrolled boost. Was warned not to do this.

Advised to get engine management asap and to drive the car gently until tuned but he continued to set up boost control with different actuators with an untuned Nistune. There was audible knock while doing this. On more than one occasion.

Then finally took car to EFI for tuning.

IMO the damage was done prior and EFI were left with a sick engine to start with.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i wish i knew if it had been tuned at all, if they did actually tune it, im not sure if they actually did now that i think about it but thats not for discussion at this current moment, i would assume it was tuned with the 20psi dropping to 14 psi.

im sorry i that didnt realize that even boost cut was too high for engine to run at for the split second my hit it oh wait that has been happening for 3 years with the stock turbo.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

i wish i knew if it had been tuned at all, if they did actually tune it, im not sure if they actually did now that i think about it but thats not for discussion at this current moment, i would assume it was tuned with the 20psi dropping to 14 psi.

im sorry i that didnt realize that even boost cut was too high for engine to run at for the split second my hit it oh wait that has been happening for 3 years with the stock turbo.

Yes, meaning it wasn't tuned for 20psi in the correct load cells. You put more load on the engine and add more boost without tuning for it then of course it's going to detonate.

I don't get your comment about the TP cut. If you increase the boost at all over factory then there is a chance it will detonate. This is why you get your AFR's checked when you do modifications like that, you don't just let it hit TP cut for 3 years thinking that means it is safe :blink:

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I only ran the 18psi for a short drive, I thought it had the smaller actuator on, later confirmed that the smaller one was the second one in the box, until I took the car to the dyno I had the 7psi actuator on and wasn't revving past 3500/4000 as that's when it got to 10psi.. I swapped it about 30mins before I got to the dyno and I drove very sedately for those 20km.

And no I didn't have any audible knock as that only hit at 6000ish rpm. That all started on the way home, that's why I was concerned.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The boost cut issue wasn't something I tried to make happen, it normally made 11/12 psi. On cold mornings it would spike ocasionally without warning.

And before this gets turned against me too, yes every time it happened I turned it down a bit more.

Edited by lilcrash
lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm not sure, the machinist hasn't touched the block yet. I've had to put it off until I have more cash. Christmas has emptied my pockets. But with any luck I should have it back on the road and fully tuned for my birthday in march. If I decide to keep it. I'm wondering if someone would be interested in buying it before i even turn the key. :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By MBS206 · Posted

      They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Sleepergm
      Hks race car install

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...