Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

After reading extensively in the Stagea suspension thread, i am still fretting about putting R33 suspension into the rear of my 1998 model S1 Stagea

Can anyone confirm they are actually running R33 suspension in thier stageas?

The reason i ask is because i have failing TIENS in the rear of mine at the moment, i cant even consider buying a new set, but i can find LOADS of second hand R33 suspension floating around.

does standard R33 suspension fit in too? or just coilovers, any clarification in the matter would bring me a great deal of peace of mind.

And i apologise for bringing up a topic that im sure most of you consider settled, i just have to be sure, rural areas means shipping everything in from interstate.

regards, Kyle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381526-r33-rear-coilovers-into-s1-stagea/
Share on other sites

i have the AWD model, 1998 S1 AWD RB25DET

I read the suspension thread in detail, but a bunch of ppl say yes, and a bunch of ppl say no.. or recommend against it

I just need ANY rear S1 stagea suspension, stock would do me fine.

It is only ever me in the stagea so spring rates and ride height are not a big issue for me, im very rarely carrying any kind of load in the car, the only regular passenger i have is my workbag and it couldnt be over 2kg!

Hence why im asking if anyone has successfully installed GTST suspension into the rears without any issues, at wits end over here, as always :(

last resort: anyone ditching thier stock rear s1 stagea suspension by chance?

Pretty sure thats a no - no Skyline shocks in Stagea rears - fronts maybe but rears will be wrong for weight reasons let alone will it fit in the strut towers.

Hi,

Well Bob i run 34gtr shocks in mine,front & rear ,

i have modded rear shock as it was an Fork,

so they can be used at OWNERS RISK ,

if its a quick fix cool,

i had mine in for few months now & its ok .

im pretty sure standard stuff the skylines spring and upper mount are too big becuase stagea gear is narrowed for bigger cargo space. given that most coilovers are more compact than standard gear i would say they would physically bolt up (if you got the whole eyelet fork thing sorted)

Hi all,

After reading extensively in the Stagea suspension thread, i am still fretting about putting R33 suspension into the rear of my 1998 model S1 Stagea

Can anyone confirm they are actually running R33 suspension in thier stageas?

The reason i ask is because i have failing TIENS in the rear of mine at the moment, i cant even consider buying a new set, but i can find LOADS of second hand R33 suspension floating around.

does standard R33 suspension fit in too? or just coilovers, any clarification in the matter would bring me a great deal of peace of mind.

And i apologise for bringing up a topic that im sure most of you consider settled, i just have to be sure, rural areas means shipping everything in from interstate.

regards, Kyle.

Would be good if you put your location in your profile. Have you looked into getting your Teins recond? Plenty of Stagea stuff for sale I have even posted shocks from here (Auckland, New Zealand ) to Aus so no need to be at your wits end - stay cool = there is a solution!

Is there a suspension shop within range? They may be able to swap out your shocks retaining the stock springs and tops and using common brands of shocks. Shocks only last about 80,000km or less under rough use so second hand stuff is no good anyway.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry guys didnt think of this thread as i laid my hands on more tiens.

Im in "mid north coast, nsw - coffs harbour" the old set of tiens had 2 busted, might be able to be rebuilt i dont know.

i have some "street spec" tiens in there now, second hand but the ride is sensational. Im selling the Stagea now anyway.

anyone want an S1 for 7k? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...