Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett Showing New Gtx Turbos .

discopotato03

By discopotato03,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

i measured back pressure on a -10 equiped rb2630 we had at work that just would not makle power over 18psi.

on 14psi there was 25psi back pressure. on 18-20psi it had 35-40psi back pressure.... (30psi boost guage the needle wraped around to 0.. and our dyno can only read 30psi.

What power did that particular engine make on your dyno?

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

Just need someone with 2530/-5 to take the plunge and try a cropped GT30 exhaust wheel as above and use the HTA 68 front wheel and hope for the best! If its to laggie 3ltr it!!

you want me to try what? :D

i'm in Melb, dealt with Stao quite a bit before with my GT-T, nice little high-flow on that car, punchy little number.

So what are we trying to do with the 2530's? in laymans terms, i'm terrible when it comes to turbos, other than a 3071 is less laggy than a 3076, basic crap like that :D

are we trying to make them more responsive and powerful at the same time, or just more top-end out of them? I'm running 2530's in the R

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Attempting to push 2530's harder! Whats the consensus of whether to open up the entry to the wastegate flap on hks 2530's? More area on the flap would apply more force to blow it open?

These could be my next upgrade (4th set) of actuators the dual ports look real nice!

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/efr-dual-port-internal-wg-actuator.html

Now i wonder if running boost pressure to the bottom side of the gate will enable me to crack 30psi up top with the 19psi actuators or head straight to the 35psi units? Be interesting to see base pressure with the 35psi ones! :domokun:

The reliability of the stock extruded manifolds are great but at 460awkw i wonder if theres power there aswell?

Nice looking actuator!

Where did you get the manifolds extrude honed?

Berry's GTR used to be (still is?) on stock manifolds, surely they'd know if it's a restriction so maybe call CNJ Motors in Queensland and see what they have to say?

Ryan1200 Proficient

Ryan1200

Posted
Posted

UAS organised the honing back in 2004 not sure if there still doing it..

Maybe hypergear could join the conversation with a few options on high flow bolt in low mount GTR turbo's that give 50-60AWKW extra than current offerings without masses of lag??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...