Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

so trying to motivate has been hard, but im slowly getting there, been gathering a few bits...

6j35dw.jpg

fuel system is like 10 years old, so thought better be safe and upgrade, gone carter black and 044.

f3z1hc.jpg

so to help with motivation i finally got my flare back!

ot2p14.jpg

i bought a blitz water temp gauge when in japan, brae made it hectic,

2gt470m.jpg

more motivation, 35r

r0rv40.jpg

and even more motivation!

im aiming for three weeks be running again, still need to fix diff and the rack and some other things i forgot, hopefully soon,

  • 2 weeks later...

yea, so im sick of paying the diff place to re do the diff, and since they wouldnt help me out with price even after ive been there more than 10 times with the thing (end rant) i did a small bit of research, spoke to tim wilkins and he was more than happy to help me out, so im doing it myself!! ahh feel better now!!

2e1hjyt.jpg

shits apart

2i06eiq.jpg

so when i pulled it apart found there attempt at making a shim!

all 4 of the phillips heads that held the hemi where all munted so changing them to allen key cap screws

yea so there piece of tin was .3mm

spoke to brae and we figured out .6mm should be the go! thanks again !

so from what i found if u use a .5mm shim your preload would be around 75/80fpds, i want 95/100 so hopefully itl obviuosly lock hard but as it wears will take longer to start opening up.

im still not finishined so this is in experiment mode, tim reckons i wont need them, but ill wait and see when i get the new plates from him,

also to help me with my memory /others out later

(( 1|1|1 centre 1|1|1))

yea so 14 plates total.

doing it your self = knowing exactly whats been done to it :)

i'm not too sure how these diff's work although be sure to take the back lash into account, so once you shim it up test the backlash and see if it needs adjusting.

after shimming my r200 into a locker the backlash is crap and low rpms are annoying, i just cant be stuffed changing the backlash shims just yet lol

doing it your self = knowing exactly whats been done to it :)

i'm not too sure how these diff's work although be sure to take the back lash into account, so once you shim it up test the backlash and see if it needs adjusting.

after shimming my r200 into a locker the backlash is crap and low rpms are annoying, i just cant be stuffed changing the backlash shims just yet lol

thats it! and if i f**k it up i only have myself to blame! hahah but yea backlash should be fine since i only pulled out centre??

Nice choice of fuel system, same as mine. I made a under car surge tank to keep it all nice and neat.

haha steve ! looks like im heading the right way! man ive dummy fitted the carter pump, sux that it has to be mounted upright, kinda limits positions

yea ok so im no diff expert, but after talking to someone who is, i found out that these type of lsds shouldnt be shimmed! it basicallly just makes it a locker and completley stuffs up how the lsd plates work/lock up.

so the only way to get preload is to add another spring plate so, it will have 6 spring plates instaed of four.

((( |1|1 centre 1|1|)))

ive done mine like this with the best springs i had, so trail and error at moment, basically i should have just got a kaaz years ago

vsdoxe.jpg

so when i was torqueing up the crown bolts, i snapped one, im blamming the amount of use they have had, so upgraded to 11.1 allen key. much better than stock, and look pretty.

25tiyhx.jpg

also when trying to find main cap specs, this came up on search engine, haha

thats it! and if i f**k it up i only have myself to blame! hahah but yea backlash should be fine since i only pulled out centre??

so true!

i ment short nose r200 r33 diff, the back lash shims are just behind the crown wheel and you unbolt the center into two bits and install the shims with in, so safe bet is its completely different diff from what your describing

  • 4 weeks later...

so car runs finally! getting somewhere now!

2wqtth0.jpg

forked out for a 6 boost, awesome mani but massive burn, cheers to brae for the screamer work! also went 50mm gate

anhv6b.jpg

fuel system done!

99ev5u.jpg

gav at garage 48 welded up turbo elbow and dump pipe

2d9zrs2.jpg

cool stuff

b4b6ko.jpg

and yea complete! well kinda, still need to do a catch can and some other stuff but getting there!

cars currently at mrc for tuning, hanging to drive a again!

  • 4 weeks later...

so yea finally got to skid again ! and man it was good! as u could probally see from previous posts id been real bummed just been pouring money in and not getting any return. cars and animal ! loving it again!

v4722e.jpg

yea so I managed to rip my oil cooler off unloading it off the trailer, was awesome. but yea I upgraded to a much larger and better toyo core

29gdj5w.jpg

I mounted it in between rad a cooler to make sure it doesn't again

limo is awesome Im just looking for a 3.9 ratio now cars just alittle to boggy and I don't have the skills to go fast enough

I also getting heaps of bind o and the rack popped again, so im getting rid of offset spacers and moving rack forward

I thought I had more pics but I don't know where

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...