Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Funny you mention that Duncan - Yes i have, given I have the on my car :rolleyes:

I also had the supplied brake lines inspected by 2 independant places who make ADR lines, both in agreeance of them being a risk. I have pics and all that will go into a review at a later date.

Topping that off two people I know have had the lines leak/split, your 1 person makes 3!

Not something you really want to occur at 200km/h, especially over a $100 part.

Ksport 330m are 2 bolt.

For those asking if this kit can go on their existing Ross Balancer, here's the answer straight from Ross who's standing next to me as I type this to make sure I get it right haha

The picture below is of a late model Ross balancer. There are 3 bolts on the outside circle area as you can see. This balancer can have the kit put on, no dramas. There is also a version where the same outside circle has 6 bolts, that one can also have it fitted.

If you don't have the bolts on the outside the kit can't be fitted and you need the late model balancer.

The outer bolts are where the trigger disc mounts too.

Hope that clears it up for everyone reading and future people searching

Rear%20of%20trigger%20wheel.jpg

I'd be interested in a Ross balancer with a smaller drive on the AC compressor. Even on 38 degree days my aircon can crank the interior temp down to a good freezing temperature, yet at idle speeds its loading the motor up more than it needs to.

There is also a version where the same outside circle has 6 bolts, that one can also have it fitted.

Hope that clears it up for everyone reading and future people searching

May as well add a couple of pics to show this 6 bolth one as well. Plus this version has 12 teeth which still was plenty to fix the RPM Scatter issue.

Note the bracket that holds the Sensor using the sump bolts. If you have a sump adaptor for an RB30, you'll need to have this milled by 10mm to suit. Ross can do it for you. At least I think they can - they unfort forgot to do mine even though I asked them to, but I'll let them off, was easy to do.

post-20408-0-87947200-1324303488_thumb.jpg

post-20408-0-61586600-1324303494_thumb.jpg

post-20408-0-31913400-1324303500_thumb.jpg

May as well add a couple of pics to show this 6 bolth one as well. Plus this version has 12 teeth which still was plenty to fix the RPM Scatter issue.Note the bracket that holds the Sensor using the sump bolts. If you have a sump adaptor for an RB30, you'll need to have this milled by 10mm to suit. Ross can do it for you. At least I think they can - they unfort forgot to do mine even though I asked them to, but I'll let them off, was easy to do.

When using the crank timing sensor and bracket in a non rb26, ie something with a tin sump, you need to space the sensor bracket down from the sump approx 6-7mm.

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...