Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where are you guys sourcing turbo fittings from, the local Enzed what rediculous dollars for what seem to be basic fittings.

I need a 4AN to 14mm banjo and a 4AN to 14mm straight through.

Are there any cheap places online besides eBay?

Edited by ActionDan

I should clarify, i don't mean Clints Crazy Bargains fittings, i just mean an alternate source to Pirtek/Enzed locally who seem to want to charge a bunch.

All I'm doing is a fitting a bigger turbo a track based S13 with a CA in it, it's budget racing :D

I got some -AN adapters from G J Drivelines, good price easy transaction via email, tell him what you need and he'll help you out...

cheapest price I found on earl's adapters too...

http://gjdrivelines.com.au/Earls.html

I bought my teflon lines and fittings from TORQUES an ebay seller in the UK, very good prices and better quality than the Proflow gear I bought locally. No issues with them so far after 6 odd months running eflex.

go to any decent industrial hydraulics supplier. (yellow pages is your friend) forget calling them AN as they will look at you with a blank look. tell them you want JIC fittings like every 1 else does except car part suppliers.

I use all Eaton (which is the industrial brand of Aeroquip) fittings on my car there cheaper & heavier duty, but they don't come in pretty colours.

If using a Garrett small frame BB turbo re use the banjos from the std T25 based turbo . Most of the hydraulics suppliers sell -4 AN weld on fittings , you drill them to suit the std shortened steel banjo tube and braze them on . Simple and looks factory because the banjos are . You'll find they are the most compact too and compact is good with turbo fittings .

A .

  • 1 month later...

I just came across SpeedflowDirect. They have by far the best prices I've come across for Speedflow gear (unfortunately I recently purchased my items :rant: ). I just received an email from Andy there they are located in Adelaide but freight won't be much for fittings and a bit of hose. They guys name is Andy.

If anyone is in Melbourne, MSCN have 'opened' up a store which is now part of Meridian Motorsport in the same location in Moorabbin/Cheltenham.

I missed out on the good pricing but hopefully this might help someone else :)

As urtwhistle mentioned, for simple Metric to AN adaptors, ie for RB block water fittings, you could try hydraulic distributors, ie Hardy Spicer, Hydraulink, Soutcott, Enzed & Pirtek etc. They will refer to them as Metric to JIC fittings. AN is only really used in the Auto industry as far as I can tell.

While I'm at it I figured I'd add the items I was getting for my GT-RS (GT2871R) turbo water lines..

WATER HOSE

-6 HOSE (200 Series, TEFLON) [200-06]

For 1 Turbo end..

14.5mm BANJO to -6AN [720-06]

BANJO BOLT (M14 x 1.5) [725-06]

-6 HOSE to -6AN 45 DEG (200 Series) [202-06-D]

For other Turbo end..

14.5mm BANJO to -6AN [720-06]

BANJO BOLT (M14 x 1.5) [725-06]

-6 HOSE to -6AN Straight (200 Series) [201-06-D]

For Block water outlet.

M14 x 1.5 to -6AN metric adaptor [732-06]

-6 HOSE to -6AN 90 DEG (200 Series) [203-06-D] - For Block end

I didn't get the Oil fittings (came with turbo) but below looks to be what is required.

OIL HOSE

-4 HOSE (200 Series, TEFLON) [200-04]

Block end - Oil outlet.

M12 x 1.25 to -4AN [358-04], possibly [730-04]

-4 HOSE to -4AN Straight (200 Series) [201-04-D or 201-04]

Turbo End

7/16" Eye Banjo to -4AN [311-04]

7/16" Banjo Bolt [300-04]

-4 HOSE to -4AN 90 deg (200 Series) [203-04-D or 203-04]

You may want to use slightly different combos depending on what your setup is so that is definitely not a one size fits all but should give a bit of an idea as to what sizes are required. I found it hard to find all this info in one place. I am going to use the exisitng oil drain parts but you could use a Turbocharger adaptor with some -10AN hose and fittings.

You can also do this cheaper with the SS hose with rubber lining but I went the teflon lined hose for added protection. I'm going even further and getting some black Insultherm sleeving from Thermo-Tec to further protect things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...