Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's no different that the stock set up in that regard though.

If your venting the catch can then you will have air entering the engine the engine that is unmetered.

Best solution when removing PCV is to run both rocker cover breathers to a sealed catch can and then a single line back to the inlet pipe.

That's what I thought but it looks like It's creating enough pressure to blow the front seal?

IF you've pumped the head full of oil then the there is no path for the blowby to release pressure from the sump - usually this is when dipstick pops. Not sure why your front seal is failing though. How hard is it to remove your dipstik?

Anyway the fix will most likely reduce the amount of oil in the head - ie smaller restrictors.

Best solution when removing PCV is to run both rocker cover breathers to a sealed catch can and then a single line back to the inlet pipe.

That is the best setup when keeping the PCV...

If removing the PCV best to vent atmo...

I wouldnt say that the dipstick is stuck or hard to remove at all.

I don't really care about keeping the PVC or not - I just thought it would be better if I removed it.

Is there any benefit to keeping the PVC and most of the hoses from the factory, but install the catch can beetween the exhaust-side rocker cover and the inlet before he turbo?

I guess the immediate other option would be to remove it altogether?

I wouldnt say that the dipstick is stuck or hard to remove at all.

I don't really care about keeping the PVC or not - I just thought it would be better if I removed it.

Is there any benefit to keeping the PVC and most of the hoses from the factory, but install the catch can beetween the exhaust-side rocker cover and the inlet before he turbo?

I guess the immediate other option would be to remove it altogether?

If your venting the catch can then you will have air entering the engine the engine that is unmetered.

Er if the catch can is venting to atmo then it is venting to atmo and not the intake!

Best solution when removing PCV is to run both rocker cover breathers to a sealed catch can and then a single line back to the inlet pipe.

That is the set up which is being criticised for sending unmetered air into the engine. I was saying that it does the same thing as the OEM set up except the PCV on the intake cam cover in blocked and the oil drops out in the can. If it send umetered air into the intake then so does the OEM set up!

Is there any benefit to keeping the PVC and most of the hoses from the factory, but install the catch can beetween the exhaust-side rocker cover and the inlet before he turbo?

Well you still get oily air being sucked in off boost so it is kind of half-arsed solution.

Er if the catch can is venting to atmo then it is venting to atmo and not the intake!

That is the set up which is being criticised for sending unmetered air into the engine. I was saying that it does the same thing as the OEM set up except the PCV on the intake cam cover in blocked and the oil drops out in the can. If it send umetered air into the intake then so does the OEM set up!

What? If the catch can is plumbed back into the intake AND venting to atmosphere then you will be drawing unmetered air in through the vent and into the system. If everything is plumbed in, you can't get any unmetered air going in. Where do you think this air is coming from??

What? If the catch can is plumbed back into the intake AND venting to atmosphere then you will be drawing unmetered air in through the vent and into the system. If everything is plumbed in, you can't get any unmetered air going in. Where do you think this air is coming from??

Where was I advocating venting to air AND plumbing back into the intake?

Maybe I got this wrong but the solution where you block the PCV valve then keep the other side plumbed into the intake via a catch can (which is closed), was criticised as allowing unmetered air into the system and someone said you have to just let the catch can vent to atmo or it screws everything up? Can't be arsed going over the thread to find what was said.

See, I was thinking thy the sucking pressure that the PVC gives off-boost would be offset by the draw from the turbo (not necessarily pressurized) when plumbed back before the turbo.

I have seen pictures above which keep the PVC by having a t-piece near the PVC with one side going to the rocket cover and the other going to the catch can. I am guessing that this would be inefficient as the PVC valve would draw some air from the can rather than drawing all it's air (and vapor from the rocker cover)?

Where was I advocating venting to air AND plumbing back into the intake?

Maybe I got this wrong but the solution where you block the PCV valve then keep the other side plumbed into the intake via a catch can (which is closed), was criticised as allowing unmetered air into the system and someone said you have to just let the catch can vent to atmo or it screws everything up? Can't be arsed going over the thread to find what was said.

You didn't, someone else did.

I don't understand where you think this air is coming from? The stock setup is a sealed system. There is no unmetered air in the system.

See, I was thinking thy the sucking pressure that the PVC gives off-boost would be offset by the draw from the turbo (not necessarily pressurized) when plumbed back before the turbo.

nope, at idle the intake pipe has very little suction, if you put a gauge on it you probably wouldnt get any vacuum, whereas the plenum has heaps due to the throttle body being shut. obviously the closer you get to 0 vacuum in the plenum the less it would draw through from the intake side, until the pcv shuts as soon as you hit boost then it starts flowing the other way if theres any blowby.

@hanaldo, he doesnt think theres any unmetered air coming in, someone else implied that and has confused you :thumbsup:

has anyone noticed on the exhaust side of the head (RB25-RB26)

there is a threaded plug that can also be used asa drain back to the sump similar to the rear head drain.

depending the what exhaust manifold you have on there it may of may not be accesible. on my 2530 there is plenty of room to do this. just need to get around to finally doing it.

Hi this is how mine is setup works great large hoses from r/covers and smaller hose to turbo inlet catch can full of coarse stainless steel wool and pvc stock

Back to what i believe was part of the original question and what i would like to know, is it better to use bigger breather hoses to get more out faster than standard, i have mine plumbed up in the factory configuration but i use a line from the cam cover that does not have a restrictor in it like the factory line does, it then runs through a catch can filled with stainless steel wool as a filter and then back to the intake pipe, is this better/worse/no different to have the restrictor in the line?

post-58211-0-11078900-1326805232_thumb.jpg

I used to have my breathers vented to Atmo with the PCV blocked but after a while i was getting blowby and plumes of smoke out the exhaust at idle, and taking off, and backing off.

I was advised to put the PCV back to stock, and have never seen another cloud of smoke since.

The setup i have now is, Stock PCV, Breathers vented to Atmo VIA a catch can, and no turbo inlet pipe.

DSCF0964.jpg

As someone mentioned, i just dont think the turbo inlet has enough vacuum at idle to sufficiently draw the vapours out of the head, if it did then the PCV wouldnt be there factory.

  • 10 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...