Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does there have to be a challenge? Why cant a thread, or section be started for modelling, just like there is a photography section in SAU forum already and models as they turn up completed can be shown off.

When I was at school we had a modellers club and weekly competitions, which I entred none. Rushing modelling is a recipe for disaster in my opinion.

So if I was to jump on the next challenge with one of my PJR DR's, I'm sure you would be happy knowing they are already on the way huh!

Fair point, what is the general consensus? Just make it a thread? This makes sense to me. Wife, kids, and too many cars doesn't leave much time, even over two or three months.

Sure thing - just a thread is fine. I'm just very prone to laziness unless feeling competitive is all!

Maybe you can have the honour of being the first exhibitor with your just finished C210 and then we can see what follows eh?

My obsession continues with the purchase of another C210 series Nissan Skyline

1981 MGC211 (MGC210 plated) 2400GT-C2 aka australian spec series 2 with air, steering, 4 speaker stereo and power windows.

Downside is that Headgasket is blown badly, but dropped to mechanics today so should be good.

522776_10150840505862650_554562649_11870261_1043034963_n.jpg

524713_10150840508842650_554562649_11870277_471468439_n.jpg

524713_10150840508847650_554562649_11870278_1555116450_n.jpg

524713_10150840508857650_554562649_11870279_1020817014_n.jpg

Edited by Socrates

Also blown head is nothing to sort out. Just be sure it really is the head, and not a pin hole in your timing cover/welsh plug behind timing cover etc. An clean unbroken head gasket will be a bit of a giveaway that there is something else afoot dumping water in your oil.

correct^ head will cost too much to fix.

I'm reconning one of my N47 heads to put on it

now i was told to use the exhaust manifold from the N47 cause it would better suit it?

is that true

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

This is the preliminary Show and shine Classes for the Nationals this year,

Have taken on alot of input from you guys here and looked very closely at the 2010 event and cars already signed up for this year, to revise the Classic classes

these are the bare minimum for the show and shine,

Classes may be split or joined as numbers become more available.

Model - Sub Categories - More Info

Prince - Standard - Depending on Numbers - Includes A & S series

C Class - Standard - Modified - Includes C10, C110, C111, C210, C211

R30 - Standard - Modified - Aus Cars Only

H/DR30 - Standard - Modified - Includes Both HR and DR30

R31 - Standard - Modified - Aus Cars Only

HR31 - Standard - Modified - Includes Coupe and Passage

R32 - Standard - Modified - GTS & GTST Coupe and Sedan

BNR32 - Standard - Modified - Includes Vspec I and Vspec II

BNR32 - Standard - Depending on Numbers - Aus Cars Only

R33 - Depending on Numbers - Modified - GTS & GTST Coupe and Sedan

BNR33 - Standard - Modified - Includes Vspec I and Vspec II

R34 - Standard - Modified - GT & GTT Coupe and Sedan

BNR34 - Standard - Modified - Includes Vspec I and Vspec II

R35 - Standard - Modified

Skyline Mini - Standard - Modified - Pulsar Class

Skyline Wagon - Standard - Modified - Stagea Class C34 & M35

Best Non Skyline TBC

This is the preliminary Show and shine Classes for the Nationals this year,

Have taken on alot of input from you guys here and looked very closely at the 2010 event and cars already signed up for this year, to revise the Classic classes

these are the bare minimum for the show and shine,

Classes may be split or joined as numbers become more available.

Model - Sub Categories - More Info

Prince - Standard - Depending on Numbers - Includes A & S series

Best Non Skyline TBC

Adrian - what do you mean by A & S series?

See you Wednesday!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...