Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ive been searchin the forum for this but with no luck so i will just ask instead (excuse for the noobiness)

I currently have. Volk gtc's Front:235/40/r17 rear:255/40/r17 which are 8's front 9's rear , i have the rear gaurds rolled and i want to know what size tyres do i need (or to get) to have stretched tyres

I also have 25mm neotech spacers that i recently installed into my rear wheels which i found was rubbing, what camber adjustment would i need and ride height to be able to fit it in ( the car is sitting 145mm off the ground from the middle)

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387308-stretched-tyres-for-an-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

List the offset so we can tell you?

I run 235's front and 265's rear with only rolled guards. My old 19's were the same and were fine without even touching the guards. You need to list the offset as well as the spacers to work out where the wheels will sit with the tyres. Sounds like you bought GTR offset and are spacing them to a gtst?

List the offset so we can tell you?

I run 235's front and 265's rear with only rolled guards. My old 19's were the same and were fine without even touching the guards. You need to list the offset as well as the spacers to work out where the wheels will sit with the tyres. Sounds like you bought GTR offset and are spacing them to a gtst?

Im not sure about the offset because i bought the car with the wheels on it already so im not quite sure what he was trying to achieve but from the lools of it the fronts are +35 rears +39 but as i said im not quite sure ,

Im not sure about the offset because i bought the car with the wheels on it already so im not quite sure what he was trying to achieve but from the lools of it the fronts are +35 rears +39 but as i said im not quite sure ,

offsets are usually stamped on the wheel somewhere, usually on the inside of the spokes

think my old wheels were 9.5" wide +38 offset with 265's (very small stretch) fronts were 8.5" wide + 35 with 235's (again think they are very slightly stretched.

I have 9" wide + 36 with 265's on the rear now and they scrubbed a fair bit and I had to roll the guards. Just to let you know what my experiences were

Might have to double check the offsets but I think thats about right

You dont need offset to determine 'stretch'

with 8 and 9, it's hard to have any sort of stretch unless you go like 205 for front and 215 for rear which is abit stupid

Sell the rims and get 9 and 10, or 9.5 and 10.5, then get into the stretch game

You dont need offset to determine 'stretch'

with 8 and 9, it's hard to have any sort of stretch unless you go like 205 for front and 215 for rear which is abit stupid

Sell the rims and get 9 and 10, or 9.5 and 10.5, then get into the stretch game

yeah but he wants to know if its going to rub etc. so offsets matter for that. I know offset doesnt effect stretch

offsets are usually stamped on the wheel somewhere, usually on the inside of the spokes

think my old wheels were 9.5" wide +38 offset with 265's (very small stretch) fronts were 8.5" wide + 35 with 235's (again think they are very slightly stretched.

I have 9" wide + 36 with 265's on the rear now and they scrubbed a fair bit and I had to roll the guards. Just to let you know what my experiences were

Might have to double check the offsets but I think thats about right

Thanks mate i will just double check the wheels when i get back home, i might just do that and get 265's when my 255's run out , just got these new neotech spacers which i wanna be able to use in either the fronts or rears, also i dont have any camber on the wheels so their straight as,

Why do you want to stretch the tyre? Fitting a tyre that is narrower than the tyre manufacturer supports would not be legal and will have worse performance than a proper fit?

Or is this just about the ful sik look and handling doesn't matter?

Why do you want to stretch the tyre? Fitting a tyre that is narrower than the tyre manufacturer supports would not be legal and will have worse performance than a proper fit?

Or is this just about the ful sik look and handling doesn't matter?

Hey duncan

Yeh it was just to get a "Sik" look but it sounds like the cons are more than the pros

OK makes sense....just wanted to make sure you were aware it's only a cosmetic choice, not a performance one ;)

Put the best tyres you can afford under it and enjoy, the right tyres really transform a car

OK makes sense....just wanted to make sure you were aware it's only a cosmetic choice, not a performance one ;)

Put the best tyres you can afford under it and enjoy, the right tyres really transform a car

Or in my case its done for maximum clearance so can run more lock lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...